Oxo Tower: Taking vegetarian cuisine to new heights

It's not common to find a variety of vegetarian options at fine dining restaurants, let alone vegan ones, but the restaurant at the top of the Oxo Tower in London has assembled a standalone vegetarian menu for meat-free diners.

A lift transported us from the promenade at the South Bank to the eighth floor of the iconic building, where we were taken to a table next to a large glass facade looking out on to the city's twinkling nightscape.

On a Monday night, the crowd at the Oxo Tower is business - handshakes cross tables as suited business folk talk digits. Despite our own lack of business dress, we seemed to pass okay - the restaurant is welcoming and staff are far from snooty.

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The vegetarian menu was devised by head chef Jeremy Bloor and is a very British creation, experimenting with vegetables, nuts and cheeses.

My starter of a garden herb risotto ball, with wild garlic pea and almond cream, is full of fresh flavour. My companion chose the sweet potato pancake, with Cornish brie, courgette flower and kumquat marmalade - an inventive dish blending tangy flavours with more subdued ones.

Our incredibly attentive waiter launched at us many times to ask whether we were finished - by his third attempt, we were ready for our mains.

A wild mushroom lasagne, accompanied by broad beans, buttermilk and maple, had good texture and a warming creaminess.

But even richer was the walnut, tofu and Spenwood cheese crumble, which arrived in a cute ramekin, with pickled red cabbage, radish and spring onion salad on the side.

We had no room for dessert, but we ordered nevertheless. The choices are solely vegan - an orange and poppy seed syrup cake and almond ice cream, sorbets and fresh fruits - but I couldn't help wishing for something a little more indulgent.

Our ever-reliable waiter kept our glasses topped up with wines from Harvey Nichols' own vineyards - the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was outstanding: crisp, refreshing and far too drinkable.

As a vegetarian myself, it was more than appreciated to find a quality restaurant with a menu offering more than one option.

Even my companion, a committed meat-eater who is resistant to my attempts to sway him otherwise, was content.

There's no edgy twist or international fusion here - and I like my spice. Nevertheless, the simple menu proved vegetarian dishes have the right to be served up as haute cuisine.

Vegans and vegetarians will descend on the Tower, I'm sure.

The Oxo Tower restaurant, Barge House Street, London, SE1 9PH.