Get lost on purpose: A guide to Fez
Thrillingly unique, Morocco’s most authentic city boasts a rabbit-warren, memory-clogging medina and fine, fruit-happy cuisine

Is any world city more immersive? The brilliant brouhaha of Morocco's oldest imperial capital delivers a full-throttle assault of every sense: colours dazzle, sounds blare for attention, smells delight and disgust, surfaces beg to be touched and foods thrill the tongue. Now served by direct weekly Air Arabia Maroc flights from Gatwick, Fez is truly a Moroccan must-see.
What to do
Fez's heart is Fez el-Bali: a UNESCO-protected medina, and the world's largest car-free urban area. Strolling this dilapidated, pulsating timewarp typically involves gasping constantly and dodging lots of donkeys. You'll probably also get lost as, supposedly, no cartographer has ever accurately translated Fez el-Bali's labyrinth to paper, including some alleys so narrow one must walk sideways – but that's half the fun. Make sure to duck into an ornate madrasa (school) and to visit the Chouara tanneries: hulking clay vats filled with vivid, multi-coloured dyes, as pongy as they are beautiful.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Where to shop
Guides help you get the best from the medina, but be aware that they'll sometimes pressure you into purchases at their friends' shops. Be polite but firm and, above all, be prepared to barter: haggling is a national sport. The medina divides into artisan quarters from jewellery to perfume; particularly impressive are its kaftans, rugs, cushions, babouche slippers and leather bags.
What to see
Only 45 minutes by train is Meknes, another imperial city and very attractive. Jemima Mann-Baha, owner of hotel, Palais Amani, also recommends the nearby Zalagh hills. 'In less than five minutes, you're in rolling countryside,' she declares. 'Picnic spots in mature olive groves have breathtaking medina views.'
Where to eat
Fez is reckoned to be Morocco's foodie capital, with its Fassi cuisine using fruits as vegetables and fond of spices like cumin and cinnamon. Riad Le Calife does all the classic dishes superbly, including tagines and pastilla – a sweet pie with pigeon meat.
Where to stay
Located beside one of the medina's main gates, Palais Amani's Art Deco building dates to the 1930s. There are 15 rooms, a candlelit hammam, a rooftop solarium and bar looking over Fez's minarets and satellite dishes, a restaurant, and a large, orange tree garden – the perfect retreat after those chaotic souks.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
5 costly cartoons about the national debt
Cartoons Political cartoonists take on the USA's financial hole, rare bipartisan agreement, and Donald Trump and Mike Johnson.
-
Green goddess salad recipe
The Week Recommends Avocado can be the creamy star of the show in this fresh, sharp salad
-
The Biden cover-up: a 'near-treasonous' conspiracy
Talking Point Using 'Trumpian' tactics, the former president's inner circle maintained a conspiracy of silence around his cognitive and physical decline
-
5 trips where the journey is the best part
The Week Recommends Slow down and enjoy the ride
-
Intimate hotels for a romantic couple's getaway
The Week Recommends Love is in the air at these enchanting properties
-
Love design? These hotels are ready to startle your eyes and drop your jaw.
The Week Recommends A treasure trove of curios and resplendent decor await
-
Find the soul of Morocco in Fez
The Week Recommends This onetime imperial city is a cultural and spiritual center
-
Spring forward this March at these 6 delightful hotels
The Week Recommends Celebrate the return of spring at luxe properties in the Bahamas, Marrakech and Barcelona
-
The week's good news: Oct. 19, 2023
Good News It wasn't all bad!
-
La Sultana Marrakech review: an oasis of calm in the heart of the Kasbah
The Week Recommends This stunning boutique hotel is built in the shell of a Moroccan palace
-
The Oberoi, Marrakech review: take a dip into total tranquillity
The Week Recommends Five-star hotel feels a million miles away from Marrakech’s hustle and bustle