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Dubrovnik: A taste of luxury in the real Kings' Landing
Enjoy an Adriatic fantasy of your very own at the historic Hotel Excelsior
Ask executive chef Peter Obad where he gets his inspiration and his eyes drift away to the crystal-clear water of the Adriatic by your side, then they move over to the land, where Dubrovnik's city walls are reflecting the lightshow of the setting sun, and then he turns back to you and says:
"Girls."
Fear not, this isn't a tale of cooking debauchery worthy of Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential. Obad's muses are his daughters, who spur Hotel Excelsior's highly talented food guru on to transform Croatia's regional dishes into exquisite masterpieces. Sea urchin is one of his specialities, their flavour as fresh as the sea which laps beneath you at the al fresco Salin restaurant, one of four eateries at the newly refurbished historic hotel.
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Obad's passion for his food is matched only by the high standard of service from the rest of the staff, who recommend The Week Portfolio a fine Croat Poslip to go with our meal, its rich flavour the perfect accompaniment to Obad's creations.
Photo: Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archive
The star of the show, however, is Hotel Excelsior's stunning vista: the old town of Dubrovnik, with its harbour and Old Town, a Unesco heritage site for many years and now known around the world as Game of Thrones' King's Landing.
Once a defence against invaders, the medieval walls serve to keep out cars these days, making the aristocratic palazzos inside a delight to walk around. Approaching from the Excelsior, a five-minute stroll away, you enter through the 14th-century Romanesque style Ploce Gate and across a stone bridge which spans the old city moat.
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Inside the walls, you find a collection of historic buildings reflecting the wealth and importance of this former city-state. Any visit should include a stop off at the impressive Luza Square, bordered by the late medieval and early renaissance architecture of the Sponza Palace, the grand Clock Tower, the Rector's Palace and the Sveti Vlaho Church - the Church of St Blaise, Dubrovnik's patron saint, a magnificent Baroque creation. Visit on a Saturday morning and the square is filled with delights from the local farmer's market, the vibrant hues of the fruit and veg on offer vying with colourful knick-knacks for your attention.
From there, it is a case of simply wandering around the narrow, cobbled streets, exploring the hiding holes of this fascinating city before stepping out into the harbour, a major stopping-off point for cruise ships but still a spot to watch local fishermen bringing in their catch under the watchful eye of St John's Fortress.
Dubronvik's more recent history is commemorated in another military stronghold - Fort Imperial on Mount Srd, home to the Museum of Croatian War of Independence. Displays included details about the fall of the republic and the rise of Serbia in 1991 - bullet holes can still be seen in the fort - before moving on to Croatia's victory four years later. Most of all, however, the exhibition is a poignant reminder of a past not so long ago and the devastating toll it took on the country and it's cultural heritage. It certainly gives food for thought as you look down from the mountain top, over the peaceful city below glinting in the summer sun.
It is a tale the Hotel Excelsior knows well. Opened in 1913 as the royal residence "Villa Odak", this luxury five-star hotel has presided over a century of historical and cultural developments in Dubrovnik and neither the wars of the 1990s nor both World Wars could make it shut its doors.
This year saw the landmark receive a refurbishment to create an eclectic mix of old architecture and 21st design. The 141 rooms and 17 suites feature dark-wood furnishings in a chic neutral palette, with luxurious touches including L'Occitane toiletries in the stylish, modern bathrooms. Most rooms feature sea views, the sound of the waves washing over you as you sleep.
If you can bear to tear yourself from the panorama, downstairs you find an indulgent spa area and fitness centre, featuring treatments using Sisley's Phyto-aromatic products. An indoor pool competes with Jacuzzi whirlpools, Turkish and Roman baths and a Finnish sauna for your attention - or you can lounge on the private beach area and enjoy a refreshing dip in the Adriatic to cool off.
Despite this, the Hotel Excelsior maintains a charm and welcoming touch - when The Week Portfolio visited, guests included a couple from Scotland celebrating their tenth visit. They were in good company, over the years, the hotel has played host to the likes of the Queen, Vaclav Havel, Jackie Onassis, Edward Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor, among many others.
And with Obad overlooking the kitchen, they'll be assured of a feast fit for a king or queen - even one of Westeros.
A classic double room at Hotel Excelsior starts from €196 (£177) per room per night including breakfast. Contact adriaticluxuryhotels.com for details.
Monarch, the scheduled leisure airline, operates flights to Dubrovnik from Birmingham and London Gatwick airports with fares, including taxes, starting from £47 one way (£109 return). For further information or to book Monarch flights and Monarch Holidays, please visit monarch.co.uk
