New York Fashion Week: waving or drowning?

After all the hype at the early shows, the fashion industry reacts to a mixed bag of offerings at the spring/summer 18 showcases

Bella Hadid
(Image credit: BFA)

New York Fashion Week was short of a few creative stars this season. Thom Browne, Joseph Altuzarra, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler all decamped to show at Paris couture and ready-to-wear weeks. Ahead of the shows, Vanessa Friedman of the The New York Times pondered the future of New York Fashion Week, reflecting glumly on the comment from Alix Morabito, fashion editor of influential Parisian department store Galeries Lafayette, that the city had become "less attractive from the buyer side".

For buzz, at least, the vacuum was filled by pop star Rihanna, who launched her Fenty Beauty line to great fanfare, showed her Fenty Puma collection (complete with pre-show motocross on pink sand dunes) and had a blowout party. "One might be forgiven for thinking it's actually Rihanna New York Fashion Week," Friedman huffed. But Fenty Puma drew praise from Chioma Nnadi at vogue.com for bringing a "desperately needed" adrenaline rush and swimwear that had "all the coolest trimmings, including industrial zippers, adjustable toggles, peekaboo lacing, and mesh overlay". Shoes, the brand's greatest commercial success, didn't slack off either: "stiletto thong sandals were finished with chunky surf-style ankle straps; mules came floating on thick Perspex heels; her best-selling creepers were updated with chunky stomper boots."

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