Coya restaurant review: shining a light on deepest, darkest Peru
Top-end Peruvian cookery in the heart of Mayfair
When the Peruvian migrant Paddington Bear arrived in London 59 years ago last week, his country’s food was unknown to the majority of British diners. In the intervening decades, interest in Latin American cuisine has grown steadily, peaking over the past year after a flurry of restaurant openings.
US food critic Eric Asimov describes Peru’s fast-growing fare as “one of the great cross-cultural exchanges of all time”, having absorbed influences from almost every continent over the last 500 years. And the good news is that Londoners don't have to travel all the way to Lima to try it out. Mayfair restaurant Coya’s interpretation of Peru’s fascinating fusion cuisine is both authentic and upmarket.
Located close to Green Park in the heart of the capital, Coya occupies the Venn diagram crossover point where atmospheric private members’ club meets high-end eatery. The lighting is low, the decor well judged, and the food exceptional, if pricey.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The menu opens with a selection of ceviches – raw fish dishes cured in citrus fruits and spiced with chilli. The true origin of ceviche is unknown, but Peru claims it and Coya makes it its own.
We opt for two, the Lubina Classico and the Salmon Nikkei, and couple them with Peru’s answer to sashimi – a scallop tiridito. All three arrive promptly and the ceviches immediately deliver. The Classico is a classic for a reason – fresh fish, beautifully presented, that’s soft and subtle when eaten on its own and wonderfully tart when coupled with corn, potatoes and lemony sauce. The Nikkei is less understated, with wasabi adding heat and ginger acting as an instantaneous palate cleanser. The only weak spot in our opening salvo of raw dishes is the tiridito. The delicately sliced scallops are overwhelmed by a powerful Peruvian olive puree.
Things get immediately and spectacularly back on track when our mains arrive – the restaurant’s famed “iron pot”, the Arroz Nikkei, and a tiger prawn dish, the Langostino Tigre.
It’s hard to overstate the excellence of Coya’s much-praised iron pot. Our waitress recommends it to us and and to the tables on either side. She’s right to do so – it’s outstanding. The dish arrives at the table with the sea bass intact, then mixed until all the ingredients are combined. The result is an unctuous combination one wishes would never end.
At £39, the iron pot isn’t cheap – though it isn’t the dearest item on Coya’s menu, which includes a Wagyu sirloin for just shy of £100 – but it’s unquestionably worth every penny. This is a destination dish if ever there was one.
Our other main, the Langostino Tigre is billed as a tiger prawn, but is almost the size of a lobster. A lovely accompaniment, this would be a star dish in other company, but plays second fiddle to the glorious Arroz Nikkei.
For food lovers with a sweet tooth, there’s a trio of dessert options. The most unusual on the list is the Sundae de Maiz, a corn-based frozen dessert, which may sound like an odd proposition. In fact, it’s very nice – a sweetcorn ice-cream speckled with caramel popcorn.
Prices can seem high, but the drinks list includes excellent wines by the glass at reasonable prices, which makes a big difference to the final tally.
And the high-quality cookery on show at Coya makes it clear why Peru’s cuisine is neither so deep, nor so dark as when Paddington first arrived.
Coya, 118 Piccadilly, W1J 7NW, coyarestaurant.com, 020 7042 7118
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.
-
Today's political cartoons - May 4, 2024
Cartoons Saturday's cartoons - reflections in the pond, riding shotgun, and more
By The Week US Published
-
5 high-caliber cartoons about Kristi Noem shooting her puppy
Cartoons Artists take on the rainbow bridge, a farm upstate, and more
By The Week US Published
-
The Week Unwrapped: Why is the world running low on blood?
Podcast Scientists believe universal donor blood is within reach – plus, the row over an immersive D-Day simulation, and an Ozempic faux pas
By The Week Staff Published
-
7 magnificent hotels to visit before the summer crowds descend
The Week Recommends Have beach time in the Dominican Republic or a spa day in Saint-Tropez
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Silversea cruise review: a Central and North American adventure
The Week Recommends An incredible journey featuring cultural exploration, cooking classes, comfort and more
By Yasemen Kaner-White Published
-
Death Cafes: where people talk mortality over tea and cake
Why everyone's talking about The meet-ups are intended to offer a judgement-free and respectful space to discuss the end of life
By Chas Newkey-Burden, The Week UK Published
-
What to know when planning an awe-inspiring hike on the Inca Trail
The Week Recommends Peru's most famous trail leads to Machu Picchu
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Three Chimneys restaurant and The House Over-By review: Skye's sumptuous rural hideaway
The Week Recommends The award-winning restaurant with rooms is well worth battling the elements to reach
By Jamie Timson, The Week UK Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated