Coya restaurant review: shining a light on deepest, darkest Peru

Top-end Peruvian cookery in the heart of Mayfair

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When the Peruvian migrant Paddington Bear arrived in London 59 years ago last week, his country’s food was unknown to the majority of British diners. In the intervening decades, interest in Latin American cuisine has grown steadily, peaking over the past year after a flurry of restaurant openings.

US food critic Eric Asimov describes Peru’s fast-growing fare as “one of the great cross-cultural exchanges of all time”, having absorbed influences from almost every continent over the last 500 years. And the good news is that Londoners don't have to travel all the way to Lima to try it out. Mayfair restaurant Coya’s interpretation of Peru’s fascinating fusion cuisine is both authentic and upmarket.

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Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.