A taste of Merseyside: the rise of Liverpool's speakeasy scene
Liverpool's discreet bars, fuelled mainly by word of mouth, are blazing new trails
With its thriving cultural scene, and young population, Liverpool is an incubator of trend and style. Elegant in stature, its neo-classical architecture, full of mythical liver birds and Romanesque columns, dominates the skyline.
These days, a refreshing optimism is evident in the city's bars and cafes. The increasingly popular yet discreet speakeasy scene, fuelled mainly by word of mouth, is typical of the trailblazing taste of the average Merseysider.
Developed predominately by independent bartenders who have worked their way up through key city venues, the rise of speakeasy-style bars throughout Central Liverpool has matured over the past few years.
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The journey of discovery taken locating the city's camouflaged bars is as thrilling as the unique cocktails each bartender concocts. When you arrive at any one of the city's stylish speakeasies, you tend to be met by a host, who greets you personally. Each discreet establishment demands that it be sought out, never stumbled upon. Seats are generally plentiful and the speakeasies' target customer is typically discerning.
Liverpool's new wave of bartenders believe great drinks are curated first and foremost though implicitly understanding their guests' needs, discussing tastes and smells and then finally creating a bespoke cocktail for them. Sensory pleasure is key, but bringing a personal service is equally important.
Nick Thomas is Manager of 81 LTD, an appointment-only second-floor speakeasy located off Liverpool’s infamously boozy Baltic triangle bar circuit. Entry to 81 LTD requires possession of a unique code. Nick believes the rise in popularity of the speakeasy comes as a reaction against the binge drinking culture that has taken root across the UK in recent years.
“We felt, many guests were looking for a different experience, not that of a local pub, or nightclub, but somewhere that they could be themselves and enjoy a quality product in a warm, inviting and safe place. That’s what I feel a speakeasy bar offers at its core. We try to promote a culture of quality not quantity in all our bars, but this is at its most apparent in speakeasies. Water is served with every drink, free snacks are always available, and guests are encouraged to enjoy one drink at a time. Eventually, I would like to see this culture adapted to most if not all bars.”
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Not far off an equally unbeaten path, Jenny’s Bar is illuminated by a slightly tarnished umbrella canopy. From the outside, the bar looks like a rundown fast food outlet, so could easily be missed. But make your way down a flight of stairs and an intimate open-plan room opens up before you, decorated in velvet, marble, stained glass and art deco textiles.
With a Mafioso feel about it, whisky takes centre stage on Jenny’s drinks menu, Boulevardier, the bourbon equivalent of a Negroni and the spicy Blood and Sand are best-sellers. For a unique twist on a gin martini, the Pool of Life mixes Tanqueray 10 with grapefruit and lavender bitters and homemade vermouth. The espresso martini is even cited by competitor speakeasy bartenders as the best in the city.
The jewel of the city's speakeasy scene is Ex Directory. Creating their main feature out of the iconic red telephone booth designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, the award-winning architect behind Liverpool’s most famous Anglican cathedral, guests must obtain a code to dial in for entry. Details of the speakeasy's whereabouts follow swiftly.
Favourites Ex Directory drinks include the Wine and Dandy, which combines Ketel One vodka and port, shaken with cranberry and pomegranate juice and garnished with wine gums. The ultimate drink for those with a sweet tooth is the aptly named Little Fluffy Clouds, which fuses gin, limoncello, cream and fresh raspberries topped with cream soda and candy floss.
Probably the best known speakeasy in town is Berry and Rhye. Staying true to the prohibition theme, a shuttered, unnamed, derelict shop disguises a 1920-esque drinking den. Menus are hidden in carved out books and candles light the air. The soundtrack is old blues and Deep South and bartenders dress as though they have time travelled straight from the era. Ask any bartender across the city where the best drinks are made and they will direct you here.
Berry and Rhye's bartenders are known for concocting powerful drinks capable of slaying a cowboy. For something dry and savoury try the Que Pasa, Doc? A concoction which mixes lunazul reposado, stirrings ginger, house carrot tincture, sugar and aquafaba. Then if you’re feeling brave, a spicy Cape Fear challenges even the most hardened drinker, mixed with Tito’s handmade vodka, cranberry, lime, ginger and chilli peppers. The closest modern equivalent to a saloon, Berry and Rhye offers both secrecy and intimacy.
Although not typically regarded as a speakeasy, Furnivall’s Well is also a must on a bespoke bar crawl of the city. A Dickensian bar and live music venue, restored from a converted Victorian police station, booth seats are situated behind bars in individual cells, with original iron handcuff bolts above tables. A truly incredible space, full of history, evocative smells and exposed original brick walls, Furnivall’s Well demonstrates just how complex and ambitious a drinking space can be. Toast to Pip - a nod to Dickens Great Expectations masterpiece is a must try drink. Dickens once frequented this very building and every bartender passionately retells the story pledging their respect to the famous writer and social commentator.
After your bar crawl, you may be in need of a comfortable bed to recuperate. The Titanic is the perfect spot to recover, constructed in the first phase of a £36m redevelopment of Stanley Dock.
Partly responsible for breathing new life into a once derelict part of the city, The Titanic has transformed a historic building on the World Heritage at Risk list into a unique hotel. The winding back streets lead away from the busy city centre and into the raw industrial dockland area where the building is situated. Offering 153 bedrooms and suites over-looking Mersey Estuary and Tobacco Warehouse, The Titanic is a true architectural achievement. Its rooms are constructed like studios with high ceilings and loft-style window lighting. Beds and baths alike are oversized and luxurious, the rooms are minimalistic design statements. In the basement of the hotel, the Maya Blue Wellness spa features a Romanesque pool, aqua thermal experiences, a relaxation area, five treatment rooms and a gym.
Visiting Liverpool's speakeasy scene offers a glimpse into an understated metropolis. Here you can expect hearteflt conversations with cabbies about their grandma's health and the local newsagent will express genuine concern for your cough. Meanwhile, the city's speakeasy bartenders don’t want you drunk, they encourage a different, more restrained approach to drink, to be enjoyed in their exquisite (though hard to find) venues.