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Brunello Cucinelli on his new colourful eveningwear
The CEO of the eponymous Italian fashion brand on his new clothing for the contemporary dandy
Every six months, we have to present something new. So, when we start thinking of our new collection we, of course, don't want to resort to something we're already tired of. For this season, I thought what if I wanted to dress up for an evening, maybe in a situation where I would be surrounded by younger people? In that case, I don't want to wear a classic navy tuxedo. So, I thought velvet would be a nice twist on the traditional.
We have used smooth velvet, which is very lightweight, for our new eveningwear. I think this type of eveningwear is very youthful, but not youthful in the sense that I cannot wear it, just because I'm 64. It's chic, but also entertaining, amusing in a way, and has a hint of a contemporary look.
Many people have said that this collection has invoked the style of the 1970s. And, yes, it's true that this graceful way of dressing has perhaps been lost in the recent past; so now we're going back in time to make the point that it is fun to dress elegantly.
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It doesn't need to be classic though. The men you see wearing these elegant clothes today are much better groomed – in the 70s I would wear a rough beard and ruffled hair, whereas now this is not the case. It takes them an hour just to shave and trim their beards! It's a contemporary, very looked-after look – chic, very trimmed and proper.
The clothes are conceived to complement that attitude. The eveningwear is not old-fashioned in appearance. There's a difference in this look – the idea of being a contemporary dandy. And a difference in how we apply the word itself. Sometimes, when you hear people say 'dandy', you get the impression that it's in reference to classic times. So, this new collection presents a more contemporary version of a dandy.
Colour, as well as fabric and cut, is very important, too. Navy, grey, tobacco – the way you play with colour and use it to break up or freshen up an eveningwear look is crucial.
Pair the coloured velvet jackets with matching trousers to make up a suit, or break up the look with contrasting navy velvet trousers. White or chambray shirts and good-sized black velvet or black satin bow ties finish things off.
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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI founded his eponymous fashion brand in 1978, and is these days renowned for his innovative use of coloured cashmere to create a relaxed, contemporary style for both men and women; brunellocucinelli.com
