Four Seasons Koh Samui review: a heavenly Thai retreat

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A hillside village of dark-wood villas secluded in a coconut forest, the Four Seasons Koh Samui represents Thailand at its most tranquil.

And its friendliest: whether you’re tucking into expertly prepared Thai curries, sipping local rum cocktails on the beach or slinking off to the serenity of the spa, a small army of obliging waiters, waitresses, chefs, drivers and therapists are on hand to enhance your visit - and greet you with Thailand’s traditional prayer-like salutation.

The villas, each generously proportioned and furnished with a sundeck and swimming pool, are dotted across the steep slope between a panoramic restaurant at the top of the hill and, at the bottom, a 50m swimming pool overlooking the resort’s private cove and beaches.

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Why Koh Samui?

Accessible, laid-back and blessed with a balmy climate, Koh Samui has long been popular with sun-seeking Europeans. “The definitive introduction to Thai island life”, says Lonely Planet, it’s “well developed yet dramatically beautiful”.

Once best known as a backpacker’s destination, it now draws in “a different kind of independent traveller,” says The Daily Telegraph. The new arrivals are “stylish, well-heeled and looking to be cosseted in a villa with butler service and world-class spa treatments”.

Beyond the resorts, there’s the bustling beachfront of Chaweng, cheap and tasty food on every street and shady forests offering some relief from the strength of the sun. “Palm trees rustle in the breeze,” says The Times, and “the soft, warm air is fragranced with tropical flowers”.

What to do

There’s really no reason to leave the Four Seasons and its 42-acre estate. In fact, you could happily spend a week rolling between its restaurants (see below) - but you’ll probably want to schedule at least some time on the beach, where attentive waiters bring towels and chilled water the moment you arrive, and stronger refreshments at the touch of a button.

The sand is fine and the water warm and welcoming - within a degree or two of 30C throughout the year. Which is just as well, as you may be spending a lot of time in it: aside from the complimentary kayaks, water bikes and paddle boards, you can hire a power boat, or join a snorkelling trip led by the resort’s marine biologist, who enthuses about life on the coral reef that lies just offshore, and efforts to preserve it.

Conservation of the self is also high on the agenda: the Four Seasons spa offers an enticing array of scrubs, wraps and facials, as well as invigorating Thai and international massages. Free classes in yoga, tai chi and Thai boxing are available to beginners and experts alike, and a well-appointed gym, open 24 hours a day, will spur you on with inspiring views over the forest and ocean.

Further afield

Angthong National Marine Park, a conservation area consisting of 42 islands “strewn like a dragon’s teeth over the deep-blue Gulf of Thailand” is a haven of virgin rainforest and deserted beaches, says Rough Guides. The Four Seasons concierge can arrange a boat trip to the archipelago.

On Samui itself, the Na Muang Waterfall is a little off the beaten track, but worth the short taxi ride and half-hour hike through the forest. It is in fact two distinct cascades, which tumble down a series of rocky outcrops into a deep plunge pool.

What to eat

In pride of place, looking out over the shimmering forest canopy, is the KOH Thai Kitchen and Bar. The menu changes throughout the week, but the focus is firmly on authentic southern Thai cooking, prepared with passion and served with impeccable attention to detail.

Thai staples - including massaman beef curry and spicy, prawn-rich tom yum goong - are interspersed with less familiar offerings, including goong mung korn phad bai kaprao (stir-fried lobster) and hor mok pla yang (curried fish cake served in a banana leaf). All dishes are prepared to your taste, from mild to the eye-watering level of firiness known as “Thai spicy”.

KOH also serves an extensive breakfast, featuring Thai and Western cooked dishes, as well as a huge range of pastries, cereals and tropical fruits.

For lighter lunches and evening meals, the poolside Cocorum bar serves tacos, fajitas and other Mexican-themed snacks, and Pla Pla, next door, serves Mediterranean classics. Rich in seafood, the bistro-style selection from the grill also includes wagyu beef and spring chicken, alongside pizzas, pasta dishes, salads and sandwiches.

The resort also lays on a series of special dining experiences, including barbecues on the beach and, on Sundays, a “brunch”- really too modest a term for a lavish five-hour banquet encompassing, among many other treats, Thai curries, sushi, lamb cutlets and a whole room filled with elegant French patisserie and cheese.

And if you’ve exhausted all other options, you can order a “bucket barbecue”, which will be delivered to your villa, complete with dips, meats and seafoods, sauces, side dishes and desserts - and the hot coals with which to cook them.

What to drink

Whether you’re looking for fine wine with your evening meal, a cocktail by the pool or a cold beer on the beach, the impeccable Four Seasons staff are happy to help. Rum enthusiasts are particularly well served: the hotel has an ever-expanding collection of bottles from all over the world. Tastings can be arranged in the stylish Rum Vault.

When to go

Koh Samui has a tropical climate with hot, humid weather (30C+) all year round. The driest, sunniest months are February and March, but short, sharp downpours are possible at any time - and most months include long runs of sunny days, even in the wet season, which runs from late October to late December.

How to get there

British Airways flies from London to Koh Samui via Bangkok from £675 return.

How to book

A one-bedroom pool villa is available from about £500 per night. For more information and to book, visit the Four Seasons Koh Samui website.