Officina 00 Old Street, London review: take a masterclass in pasta eating

An Italian carb-fest that’s satisfying, authentic and exciting

Officina 00 Old Street, London

This is not Italy. This is not gnocchi in Naples, nor aperitifs along the Adriatic, nor bellinis in Bergamo, nor any other pre-lockdown sun-drenched memory, or post-lockdown wistful fantasy.

This is Officina 00 on Old Street, by the side of a traffic-choked street in London, in the last cold, dying days of lockdown. That said, despite the unseasonal spring chill, this is a delightfully cheerful, confident Italian restaurant with enough pinazz to banish reality for a little while, at least for a couple of hours until it is simply too cold to do anything other than wander off into the night – well, back home.

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