Hidden culture: a trip through Jerusalem

Behind the headlines and conflict lies one of the world’s most culturally nourishing cities

Jerusalem, Israel

Everyone shops at the Machane Yehuda food market. By day, chefs from Jerusalem’s best restaurants scout the 250 stalls looking for the perfect ingredients, jockeying with tourists who come here to smell, touch and buy, amid this tempting kaleidoscope of abundant, fresh produce. Almost everything here is made or grown locally. By night, a wild, after-dark scene arises from the market alleys, as stalls turn into small bars and musicians play live rock and jazz for party-goers.

I wander the lanes and inhale the aromas of more than 100 freshly ground spices from the Pereg spice shop and scoop up the epicurean temptations of soft, round pats of goat’s cheese, dried strawberries, homemade granola and caramelised coconut soaked in date honey. Behind every counter and stand I find a special story, thanks to the cultural and religious mix of its inhabitants.

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