Cava: Give it another try

The appeal of Spanish cava “has long escaped me,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Yet recently that changed, when a vintage cava reminded me of “aged Champagne.” Carefully made cava, like those below, can equal any other sparkling wine.

2001 Gramona Gran Reserva Brut Nature III Lustros ($60)

A Champagne-like quality makes this vintage cava a bargain. “Rich yet gentle, with lovely, elegant flavors that develop with age.”

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2006 Naveran Dama ($23)

Not quite as bold, but a deal at the price, this “refreshing and exhilarating” bottle is laced with “racy herbal and fruit flavors.”

NV González Byass Vilarnau Brut ($16)

Best value. This nonvintage brut “was unmatched in its light, bright frothiness.”