Pit stops along Texas’ barbecue trail

Pit stops along Texas’ barbecue trail

Most of the barbecue joints that dot the rural landscape known as Hill Country around Austin “have reputations that far outweigh their small size,” said Bill Daley in the Chicago Tribune. Many have devoted fans from around the state, nation, “and even around the world.” Unlike restaurants in other barbecue capitals such as Kansas City, Memphis, and North Carolina, Central Texas ’cue joints usually serve their brisket of beef without sauce. At some establishments, patrons don’t even bother to ask for a fork. “There aren’t any.” Some standouts along the Lone Star State’s barbecue trail:

Kreuz Market, Lockhart The beef brisket here is “distinctive and delicious: moist, juicy, smoky.” Diners can rinse off afterward at a wall-mounted sink next to the dining room. (512) 398-2361

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Smitty’s Market, Lockhart The gloomy darkness of the pit room here can be “quite a shock.” When you order, a crew member uses a pulley and chains to haul up the meat from the brick smoker, weighs it, and gives it to you, “a square of butcher paper serving as a plate.” (512) 398-9344

The Taylor Café, Taylor There are two identical front doors and matching luncheon counters at this funky cafe, “legacies of the old segregation days.” Owner Vencil Mares has made barbecue for 60 years. His simple method: Trim the fat, season the meat overnight, and let it cook for eight hours—always fat side up and never turned over, so it cooks in its own juices. (512) 352-8475