Crossing Morocco on horseback
It's not a vacation. It's an odyssey.

Each week, we spotlight a dream vacation recommended by some of the industry's top travel writers. This week's pick is Morocco.
A monthlong horseback ride across the North African desert is not a vacation — it is an odyssey, said Saskia Burgess at the Financial Times. Drawn by the limitless freedom of the open Sahara, I recently joined eight other travelers on a 594-mile guided ride across Morocco. It was beautiful but exhausting, and our obstacles ranged from an intense sandstorm to an encounter with some "curmudgeonly" camels. The expedition was led by Renate Erroudani, who has organized rides in Morocco for 30 years and has no need of GPS: "The desert is in her head." At 55 years old, "she rides like a heroine on a gray Arab mare and wears a turquoise turban that flies behind her as she sets off at a fast canter."
"From the first minute, this ride feels epic because of the desert's scale." We set off from Erg Chebbi, a sea of mountainous dunes — some of them 500 feet tall — near the eastern Algerian border. I soon realize that to fall into the rhythms of the long haul, "you have to lose all sense of clock time." We ride for eight hours each day, sometimes accompanied by a truck, frequently swapping horses and picnicking in the scarce shade. "After lunch, we hunt for fossils, pick roses of Jericho, and sleep — often passing out on stony ground." Nights are cold. We spend four in hotels, but otherwise we camp out under a sky "clotted with stars."
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
When a fellow rider asks if I can describe the Sahara, words fail me because it keeps changing. "The desert resists attempts to reduce it to a sentence or two." Sand, to begin with, is not one color; "sand is rose, violet, sepia, gray." Some desert landscapes strike a harmony between "serrated rock and voluptuous sand — a conversation in curves." The salt along the shoreline of a lake near the town of Tata "crunches like snow"; elsewhere, there are "unearthly green hills out of Tolkien." Closer to the coast, the desert sprouts palms, prickly pear cacti, and succulents that resemble bouquets of pickles. "Nothing can prepare you for the first glimpse of the sea." I feel tears in my eyes as we reach the foamy Atlantic: It is unbelievable to see the ocean after so much sand. It looks choppy, "but we gallop ecstatically through the water and into glittering skeins of birds that rise as we advance."
Read more at the Financial Times, or book a trip with Ride World Wide. Tours cost $3,430.
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
October 13 editorial cartoons
Cartoons Monday's political cartoons include Donald Trump's consolation prize, government workers during shutdown, and more
-
Can Gaza momentum help end the war in Ukraine?
Today's Big Question Zelenskyy’s request for long-range Tomahawk missiles hints at ‘warming relations’ between Ukraine and US
-
The Israeli hostages and Palestinian prisoners being released
The Explainer Triumphant Donald Trump addresses the Israeli parliament as families on both sides of the Gaza war reunite with their loved ones
-
Russia is ‘helping China’ prepare for an invasion of Taiwan
In the Spotlight Russia is reportedly allowing China access to military training
-
Interpol arrests hundreds in Africa-wide sextortion crackdown
IN THE SPOTLIGHT A series of stings disrupts major cybercrime operations as law enforcement estimates millions in losses from schemes designed to prey on lonely users
-
China is silently expanding its influence in American cities
Under the Radar New York City and San Francisco, among others, have reportedly been targeted
-
How China uses 'dark fleets' to circumvent trade sanctions
The Explainer The fleets are used to smuggle goods like oil and fish
-
One year after mass protests, why are Kenyans taking to the streets again?
today's big question More than 60 protesters died during demonstrations in 2024
-
What happens if tensions between India and Pakistan boil over?
TODAY'S BIG QUESTION As the two nuclear-armed neighbors rattle their sabers in the wake of a terrorist attack on the contested Kashmir region, experts worry that the worst might be yet to come
-
Why Russia removed the Taliban's terrorist designation
The Explainer Russia had designated the Taliban as a terrorist group over 20 years ago
-
Inside the Israel-Turkey geopolitical dance across Syria
THE EXPLAINER As Syria struggles in the wake of the Assad regime's collapse, its neighbors are carefully coordinating to avoid potential military confrontations