Warehouse London review: ethical dining within an exclusive setting
The Conduit private members’ club recently opened its first public-facing restaurant
A private members’ club can sometimes be a bit “Marmite” – is it exciting luxury, or simply elitism? Fortunately for Warehouse London, a welcoming, public-facing restaurant located in a swanky, exclusive members’ club, it manages to capture the pros without the cons.
Tucked away on the ground floor of a Grade II-listed, six-story building in Covent Garden, Warehouse is the first restaurant open to the general public within The Conduit, the ethically-focused club. Headed by former Silo head chef Brendan Eades, the menu follows the same principles of circularity and sustainability pioneered by the acclaimed zero-waste Hackney restaurant.
The decor
Warehouse is a place with a theme. The decor, in its own words, showcases an “eclectic mix of craftsmanship from the Global South” – no doubt meant to compliment the ethically-minded menu. But to me, this concept felt slightly confusing for a restaurant that makes a point of prioritising seasonal British ingredients.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
That said, interior design firm Cavendish has brought warmth and vibrancy to a space that was once an actual fruit and veg warehouse. And despite any preconceptions you may have about the atmosphere of a private members’ club, Warehouse’s energy is anything but stuffy.
The restaurant’s ethical message is made clear with a dedication to its suppliers on the front of the menu: Orkney Craft Vinegar, which hand-forages its raw ingredients in the far north of Scotland, sea salt from the south coast of Cornwall, and hemp farmed off organic arable land in Cambridgeshire.
The food
My dining companion and I started off with the New Fashioned cocktail, Warehouse’s take on an Old Fashioned. We were advised that this was more of a post-dinner drink, but we were both too intrigued by the inclusion of White Truffle Zacapa to wait. I’m glad we didn’t; it was the best take on an Old Fashioned I’ve tasted – a delightfully smooth tipple with the truffle flavour subtle enough to perfectly pair with the sweetness of the Pedro Ximenez Sherry.
We began with a snack of wafers made of fresh Red Kuri pumpkin skin – scraps that the restaurant has repurposed into an exciting dish, rather than allow to go to waste. The wafers came with hemp ricotta and wild herbs, and were so deliciously thin and crunchy that I would happily sub this combination in for crisps and dip in the future.
Next came a small plate of cured mackerel paired with a pine-infused broth that was a little on the plain side, but managed to counter the punchy preserved rhubarb. To follow, we had a soft, flaky piece of roasted hake alongside a selection of mushrooms. This was served with a side of sweet rainbow carrots, balanced with an exquisite sauce of preserved lemon and wild herbs.
Last but certainly not least was a chocolate tart with homemade Heilala vanilla ice cream. The pastry was cooked to perfection and the chocolate suitably rich enough to satisfy my not-so-sweet tooth. Warehouse’s pure Madagascar bourbon vanilla is supplied by Heilala Vanilla, an ethical company which started as an aid project and now runs a small vanilla plantation in partnership with a local family in the village of Utungake, Tonga.
It’s no easy feat to build a restaurant which prioritises circularity and zero waste, while maintaining an experimental menu. With ingredients that are seasonal, locally sourced where possible and used to their full extent, Eades certainly pulls this off, leaving you with an experience that’s good in all senses of the word.
Warehouse, 6 Langley St, London WC2H 9JA; warehouselondon.com
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Georgia's new foreign influence bill
Under the Radar Critics claim the 'Russian law' could stifle dissent and wreck the country's chances of joining the EU
By Elliott Goat, The Week UK Published
-
'Making a police state out of the liberal university'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Harold Maass, The Week US Published
-
8 looming climate tipping points that imperil our planet
The Explainer New reports detail the thresholds we may be close to crossing
By Devika Rao, The Week US Published
-
Silversea cruise review: a Central and North American adventure
The Week Recommends An incredible journey featuring cultural exploration, cooking classes, comfort and more
By Yasemen Kaner-White Published
-
Three Chimneys restaurant and The House Over-By review: Skye's sumptuous rural hideaway
The Week Recommends The award-winning restaurant with rooms is well worth battling the elements to reach
By Jamie Timson, The Week UK Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published