Trip of the week: exploring the quieter side of South Korea
You can see a lot in two weeks, from the ‘pristine’ beaches of the north to the ‘lush’ hills of the south

A free daily digest of the biggest news stories of the day - and the best features from our website
Thank you for signing up to TheWeek. You will receive a verification email shortly.
There was a problem. Please refresh the page and try again.
From Gangnam Style to Parasite, South Korea’s popular culture has spread across the world in the past decade or so. But there’s another side to this East Asian nation, says Adam H. Graham in The New York Times – a tranquil realm of thatched-roof hamlets, Buddhist temples and forested mountains.
The country is slightly smaller than England, so you can see a lot of it on a two-week visit, from the “pristine” beaches and granite peaks of the north to the “lush” hills of the south. Hiring a guide for parts of the trip would help overcome linguistic difficulties, and might make the visit more culturally enriching too.
In the mountainous Seoraksan National Park, two hours from Seoul, you may have to fend off crowds of elderly Korean women in “oversize visors” to catch the cable car up to the ruins of the 13th century Gwongeum Fortress – but it’s worth it for the views.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Much more peaceful is a stay at Samhwasa, a 1,000-year-old Buddhist monastery hidden deep in a ravine in the Mureung Valley. The monks will accompany you on walks in the “mossy” woods, and take you through their “austere” routine. Meals are “humble”, rooms are “cell-like”, with very thin mattresses, and guests take part in 6am prayers in the “dim, cavernous” temple, with its splendid ceiling depicting dragons, tigers and bodhisattvas in yellow, cinnabar, green and blue.
Nestled in a “sandy oxbow” of the Nakdong River is the historic village of Andong Hahoe, where you can stay at Bukchondaek House, a 19th century mansion with a meticulously restored landscaped courtyard and traditional floor-heating system. Breakfast there is wonderful.
The south is renowned for its cuisine, and Bukchondaek House is a good prelude to a culinary tour of the southern provinces of North and South Jeolla: be sure to stay at Baekyangsa Temple, home to Jeong Kwan, a Buddhist nun who is also a renowned chef.
For tours, try Wow Corea (wowcoreatour.com) and Inside Asia (insideasiatours.com).
Continue reading for free
We hope you're enjoying The Week's refreshingly open-minded journalism.
Subscribed to The Week? Register your account with the same email as your subscription.
Sign up to our 10 Things You Need to Know Today newsletter
A free daily digest of the biggest news stories of the day - and the best features from our website
-
5 tips to save on heating bills
The Explainer Follow these expert recommendations for a cozy and cheap winter
By Becca Stanek Published
-
Should you fire your financial adviser? 4 signs it's time to say goodbye.
The Explainer Breakups are never fun, but you have to protect your wallet
By Becca Stanek Published
-
The daily gossip: Man arrested in connection with shooting of Tupac Shakur, an OceanGate movie is in the works, and more
Feature The daily gossip: September 29, 2023
By Brendan Morrow Published
-
Properties of the week: European coastal escapes
The Week Recommends Featuring a 300-year-old rustic finca in Alicante and a secluded villa with sea views in Sardinia
By The Week Staff Published
-
Marina Abramović at the Royal Academy review
The Week Recommends Exhibition looks back at the spectacular highlights of her five-decade career
By The Week Staff Published
-
Fernando Botero obituary: artist of 'whimsical rotundity'
Obituary Colombian painter and sculptor was known for his 'exuberant style'
By The Week Staff Published
-
Boys from the Blackstuff review
The Week Recommends A 'powerful' adaptation of Alan Bleasdale's 'masterpiece'
By The Week Staff Published
-
Chris Packham: Is It Time to Break the Law? review
The Week Recommends Channel 4 documentary grapples with 'profound' questions about the 'climate apocalypse'
By The Week Staff Published
-
Seaham Hall review: serenity on the coast in County Durham
The Week Recommends Former haunt of Lord Byron is pure poetry when it comes to spa options in the north-east
By Jamie Timson, The Week UK Published
-
MG4 EV XPower review: what the car critics say
Feature The XPower just 'isn't as much fun' as a regular MG4
By The Week Staff Published
-
A weekend in Lausanne: travel guide, things to do, food and drink
The Week Recommends Everything you need to know for a city break on Lake Geneva
By The Week Staff Published