From Gangnam Style to Parasite, South Korea’s popular culture has spread across the world in the past decade or so. But there’s another side to this East Asian nation, says Adam H. Graham in The New York Times – a tranquil realm of thatched-roof hamlets, Buddhist temples and forested mountains.
The country is slightly smaller than England, so you can see a lot of it on a two-week visit, from the “pristine” beaches and granite peaks of the north to the “lush” hills of the south. Hiring a guide for parts of the trip would help overcome linguistic difficulties, and might make the visit more culturally enriching too.
In the mountainous Seoraksan National Park, two hours from Seoul, you may have to fend off crowds of elderly Korean women in “oversize visors” to catch the cable car up to the ruins of the 13th century Gwongeum Fortress – but it’s worth it for the views.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Much more peaceful is a stay at Samhwasa, a 1,000-year-old Buddhist monastery hidden deep in a ravine in the Mureung Valley. The monks will accompany you on walks in the “mossy” woods, and take you through their “austere” routine. Meals are “humble”, rooms are “cell-like”, with very thin mattresses, and guests take part in 6am prayers in the “dim, cavernous” temple, with its splendid ceiling depicting dragons, tigers and bodhisattvas in yellow, cinnabar, green and blue.
Nestled in a “sandy oxbow” of the Nakdong River is the historic village of Andong Hahoe, where you can stay at Bukchondaek House, a 19th century mansion with a meticulously restored landscaped courtyard and traditional floor-heating system. Breakfast there is wonderful.
The south is renowned for its cuisine, and Bukchondaek House is a good prelude to a culinary tour of the southern provinces of North and South Jeolla: be sure to stay at Baekyangsa Temple, home to Jeong Kwan, a Buddhist nun who is also a renowned chef.
For tours, try Wow Corea (wowcoreatour.com) and Inside Asia (insideasiatours.com).
-
Quiz of The Week: 27 September – 3 OctoberQuiz Have you been paying attention to The Week’s news?
-
Hooray for Brollywood: the UK’s film industry is booming – for nowIn The Spotlight US production giants are moving operations across the pond, but Trump tariffs threaten to bring British golden era to a sudden end
-
Child trust funds explained as over £1.5 million remains unclaimedThe Explainer HMRC data shows hundreds of thousands of young people have yet to claim money they are entitled to
-
Susie Dent picks her favourite booksThe Week Recommends The lexicographer and etymologist shares works by Jane Goodall, Noel Streatfeild and Madeleine Pelling
-
The 5 best zombie TV shows of all timeThe Week Recommends For undead aficionados, the age of abundance has truly arrived
-
6 incredible homes under $1 millionFeature Featuring a home in the National Historic Landmark District of Virginia and a renovated mid-century modern house in Washington
-
The Harder They Come: ‘triumphant’ adaptation of cinema classicThe Week Recommends ‘Uniformly excellent’ cast follow an aspiring musician facing the ‘corruption’ of Kingston, Jamaica
-
House of Guinness: ‘rip-roaring’ Dublin brewing dynasty period dramaThe Week Recommends The Irish series mixes the family tangles of ‘Downton’ and ‘Succession’ for a ‘dark’ and ‘quaffable’ watch
-
Dead of Winter: a ‘kick-ass’ hostage thrillerThe Week Recommends Emma Thompson plays against type in suspenseful Minnesota-set hair-raiser ‘ringing with gunshots’
-
A Booker shortlist for grown-ups?Talking Point Dominated by middle-aged authors, this year’s list is a return to ‘good old-fashioned literary fiction’
-
Fractured France: an ‘informative and funny’ enquiryThe Week Recommends Andrew Hussey's work is a blend of ‘memoir, travelogue and personal confession’
