Trip of the week: exploring the quieter side of South Korea
You can see a lot in two weeks, from the ‘pristine’ beaches of the north to the ‘lush’ hills of the south

From Gangnam Style to Parasite, South Korea’s popular culture has spread across the world in the past decade or so. But there’s another side to this East Asian nation, says Adam H. Graham in The New York Times – a tranquil realm of thatched-roof hamlets, Buddhist temples and forested mountains.
The country is slightly smaller than England, so you can see a lot of it on a two-week visit, from the “pristine” beaches and granite peaks of the north to the “lush” hills of the south. Hiring a guide for parts of the trip would help overcome linguistic difficulties, and might make the visit more culturally enriching too.
In the mountainous Seoraksan National Park, two hours from Seoul, you may have to fend off crowds of elderly Korean women in “oversize visors” to catch the cable car up to the ruins of the 13th century Gwongeum Fortress – but it’s worth it for the views.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Much more peaceful is a stay at Samhwasa, a 1,000-year-old Buddhist monastery hidden deep in a ravine in the Mureung Valley. The monks will accompany you on walks in the “mossy” woods, and take you through their “austere” routine. Meals are “humble”, rooms are “cell-like”, with very thin mattresses, and guests take part in 6am prayers in the “dim, cavernous” temple, with its splendid ceiling depicting dragons, tigers and bodhisattvas in yellow, cinnabar, green and blue.
Nestled in a “sandy oxbow” of the Nakdong River is the historic village of Andong Hahoe, where you can stay at Bukchondaek House, a 19th century mansion with a meticulously restored landscaped courtyard and traditional floor-heating system. Breakfast there is wonderful.
The south is renowned for its cuisine, and Bukchondaek House is a good prelude to a culinary tour of the southern provinces of North and South Jeolla: be sure to stay at Baekyangsa Temple, home to Jeong Kwan, a Buddhist nun who is also a renowned chef.
For tours, try Wow Corea (wowcoreatour.com) and Inside Asia (insideasiatours.com).
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Hôtel du Couvent: a tranquil hideaway in the French Riviera
The Week Recommends Find pared-back luxury in the heart of Nice within the walls of a beautifully restored former nunnery
-
Introducing our new app
The Week has launched a newly redesigned mobile app to deliver a smarter, faster and more personal experience
-
Angela Rayner: Labour's next leader?
Today's Big Question A leaked memo has sparked speculation that the deputy PM is positioning herself as the left-of-centre alternative to Keir Starmer
-
The cinematic beauty of Sicily's Aeolian Islands
The Week Recommends These scattered islands have inspired film directors since the 1950s
-
6 lounge-ready homes with conversation pits
Feature Featuring a terrazzo-flanked pit in California and a fire-side pit in Nevada
-
Is a River Alive?: a 'powerful synthesis of literature, activism and ethics'
The Week Recommends Robert Macfarlane's latest book centres on his journeys to four river systems around the world
-
Good One: an 'intensely compelling' coming-of-age tale
The Week Recommends India Donaldson's 'quietly devastating' debut feature about a teenage girl's life-changing camping trip
-
The best lemon pepper wings in Atlanta
Feature Marinated turkey wings, a Korean barbecue sauce combo and an off-menu staple
-
Film reviews: Friendship and Fight or Flight
Feature An awkward dad unravels after he's unfriended and Josh Hartnett attempts a John Wick sidestep
-
Art review: Ai, Rebel: The Art and Activism of Ai Weiwei
Feature Seattle Art Museum, through Sept. 7
-
Book reviews: 'Second Life: Having a Child in the Digital Age' and 'Mark Twain'
Feature Navigating pregnancy in the digital age and an exploration of Mark Twain's private life