Balmoral Arms review: a hotel fit for a king

“Aruba, Jamaica, ooh, I wanna take you to... Aberdeenshire?” When Good Housekeeping chose Aberdeenshire as the top place to visit in 2023, ahead of Aruba and Guyana, you’d be forgiven for thinking they’d misheard the lyrics to that famous Beach Boys hit Kokomo.

But it’s true, from “glorious coastline packed with wildlife” to “majestic mountains and dramatic rivers that rival those of Canada”, Aberdeenshire is “a playground for nature-lovers”, the magazine said.

Why come here?

As my grandmother was a keen reader of Good Housekeeping back in the day I gratefully took up the opportunity to visit the town of Ballater and stay one night at the Balmoral Arms, described by the magazine as the “perfect place for walkers to relax, with its cosy atmosphere and roll-top bath tubs for warming, post-hiking soaks”.

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However, here is where a confession needs to be made. While staying here we did not hike, indeed we did not even walk, meander, stroll or mosey across the 24 hours of our visit, such was the allure of our accommodation. The allure and it was a traditionally wet and windy February in central Scotland.

But, I’ve always had a good imagination and so I can imagine that every inch of the Balmoral Arms that we heartily enjoyed would be even better if you’d just taken a hike in the Cairngorns, world-famous for its stunning scenery and an area that offers some of the best walking, climbing, mountain biking, river fishing and wildlife watching in Scotland.

Recently renovated by the Crerar Hotel Group, the AA five-star Balmoral Arms provides an authentic snapshot of Highland life, with a welcoming and cosy array of rooms and suites on offer to cater for every budget. Perhaps necessary for a hotel situated slap bang in the middle of Scotland, warmth is the best word to describe the place, with warm colours adorning the walls and warm greetings from all those inside.

Eating and drinking

There are two options for dining here: the 1852 restaurant and The Ghillies Bar. So called because that was the year Balmoral Castle was purchased by Prince Albert for Queen Victoria and the royal connection to the surroundings was established, the 1852 is a vast welcoming expanse replete with wood-panelling and any number of royal details and associated paraphernalia to stimulate dinner table discussion.

The restaurant menu features a range of dishes that showcase the best of Scottish cuisine. Using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, the food itself leans heavily on its Scottish traditions without sacrificing any modern flavours. Indeed, where my Cullen skink was fantastically fishy, my dining companion’s beetroot salad had a depth of flavour not usually associated with the humble root vegetable. As the venison and steak main courses arrived at our table it was remarked upon how the traditional surroundings of the 1852 restaurant had osmotically wormed their way into our food choices.

Although we hadn’t done much physical exertion at all, we again used our excellent imagination to conjure a scenario in which we had and fairly wolfed down the mains with the same speed and vigour that we had shown on our (imaginary) climbs. All the meat is sourced locally and both the steak and the venison came with a traditional array of vegetables, delicately roasted. We even had room for a side of the 1852’s ludicrously cheesy, macaroni and cheese – well we certainly felt we’d deserved it after all our (imaginary) exertions.

The quality of the food was exceptional, and the warm (there’s that W word again) and welcoming atmosphere of the restaurant made for a memorable dining experience. Whether you’re looking to try some classic Scottish dishes or indulge in a more modern interpretation of Scottish cuisine, the 1852 at the Balmoral Arms is sure to impress.

The other offering for food is The Ghillies Bar – where we ended up having our breakfast and a pre-dinner drink. A more relaxed affair, the Ghillies – so called after the ancient Gaelic term for a Highlands servant – has a number of large tweed sofas and armchairs to sink into. Open log fires were gratefully received (did I mention how cold it was outside?) and the staff were attentive, moving the well-appointed furnishings to accommodate a larger group who arrived for breakfast just after us. After the hearty mains of the night before, we couldn’t bring ourselves to tackle the full Scottish breakfast and settled with a lighter fare of scrambled eggs and smoked fish. With more (imaginary) hikes in our future, I’m sure the full Scottish will eventually be tackled on our return.

The rooms

Each of the 44 spacious rooms at the Balmoral Arms have luxurious bare wood floors, free Wi-Fi, a flat-screen TV and tea/coffee making facilities. Weary explorers, both real and imaginary, can slip into enveloping beds fit for a king and fall asleep under beamed ceilings.

For those looking for a little more luxury in their lives the junior and premium suites come with an array of Scottish amenities from The Highland Soap Company, sweet treats from Tunnock’s, Nespresso machines and views of Ballater and the surrounding hills. A special mention must be made for the roll-top baths which are delightfully located in the suite bathrooms – they’re incredibly inviting and I can only imagine the succour and salvation they must provide after a long walk.

Things to do

The cherry on the top of our stay was a beautifully appointed spa room, offering a full-range of handpicked treatments. With temperatures approaching sub-zero outside, we were treated to a facial and full-body massage using Ishga products made from Scottish seaweed that left us feeling rejuvenated, revitalised and positively regal.

Focusing on the region’s link with the late Queen Elizabeth II as another reason to visit Aberdeenshire in 2023, Good Housekeeping added that it’s “easy to see” why she loved Deeside and that prospective holidaymakers will “want to visit the village of Ballater for its royal connections”.

And if, like me, you never turn a Good Housekeeping recommendation down then do let yourself be taken to Aberdeenshire this year and stop in at the Balmoral Arms, Scotland’s own Kokomo, that’s where you wanna go.

Jamie Timson was a guest of the Balmoral Arms. Summer rates for bed and breakfast start from £140 per night and the hotel also has a two-night dinner, bed and breakfast offer for £199 per night. 13-15 Victoria Road, Ballater, Aberdeenshire, Scotland AB35 5RA; crerarhotels.com