Pasta Evangelists, Harrods review: a varied taste of Italy

Tucked away on the ground floor of what is perhaps the most famous department store in the world – Harrods – is Pasta Evangelists, a name that is more familiar for delivering fresh pasta to homes across the UK. 

However, the organisation has now expanded, offering pasta enthusiasts a unique dining experience in the heart of London, while still capturing the authenticity of Italy. 

Pasta Evangelists, known for its artisanal approach to the culinary tradition of pasta, seems to have found the perfect home in this luxury setting, while still dishing up the classic dishes Britons have come to know and love.

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But if you're thinking about trying this restaurant for yourself, be sure to arrive with an empty stomach – the huge portion sizes and varied menu means there is plenty to enjoy.

The interior

The Harrods Dining Hall recently underwent extensive renovations to update the setting for diners. But stepping into this room, you could be forgiven for believing you'd been out to dine in East Egg, the fictional old-money area from "The Great Gatsby". 

There is an art nouveau feel that oozes from the hall, particularly from the intricately ornate tiled ceiling. It has a cosy feel based on its warm colour palette – rich golds mixed with deep greens. Complete with plush, raised seating, ambient lighting and painted frescos, an ideal balance is struck between contemporary and classic. 

Pasta Evangelists itself is nestled away in one of the corners of the space it shares with other restaurants, but unlike other multi-use spaces, this does not feel overwhelming, noisy or busy. Instead, the Dining Hall's layout is thoughtfully planned, offering an intimate and relaxing space.

But perhaps best is the open cooking concept, which could see you sitting on the counter and watching the chefs create amazing pasta dishes. This adds an immersive feel to the overall dining experience. 

The food

If you can take your eyes away from such an introduction to the space, it's high time to get acquainted with the menu offered by Pasta Evangelists. It's diverse enough that there is something for everyone, but carefully curated so that you're unlikely to feel overwhelmed.

The dining experience here is led by two-starred Michelin chef Giancarlo Perbellini, who is most famous for his Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli restaurant in Verona. The executive chef has radically overhauled the menu here, while riffing on some must-taste Italian classics and using fresh ingredients.

Essential in a traditional Italian meal is the antipasti – a starter to the layperson – and there are plenty of solid choices on this menu. But the focaccia margherita is particularly enticing. While the dish was slightly lighter than expected, it was bursting with a rich tomato sauce, while creamy stracciatella cheese oozed from the top. All in all, this was a starter with a slightly sweet taste but quintessentially Italian.

Moving on to the main course, Pasta Evangelists offers its guests a pasta-sharing selection for two people, which is absolutely ideal for those – like me – who are afraid of missing out on a variety of dishes, or find it impossible to choose. It means you essentially end up with three pasta courses tailored to your personal tastes. Don't worry about sharing – there is more than enough to go round.

We kicked things off with the carbonara with sourdough tagliolini. This is a long thin pasta that is like linguine, but slightly thinner. This dish is a creamy and decadent portion of pasta, presented in a delicious, crispy parmesan nest. The pasta, by the Michelin-star chef of Atavi, Albert Adrià, tasted so fresh and the rich sauce is exactly what fans of this dish will be expecting. The crunchy parmesan bowl really elevates the dish through its unique texture. However, you may need a long drink of water after polishing off this pasta, as the guanciale – pork cheek – on top is certainly on the saltier side.

On the higher end of the price scale is the rigatoni 'cacio e pepe', delightfully served in a hollowed-out cheese wheel. With aged cave pecorino, it is also up to you how much truffle you would like on top, as your waiter will ask your personal preference. Cooked al dente, this is a dish with a simple flavour, which may leave something to be desired if you are looking for pasta to stun your tastebuds. Indeed, the truffle does not elevate the pasta as much as it perhaps should. This is a slightly more basic dish for pasta enthusiasts, but one worth trying. 

But the surprising star of the show is the creste di gallo pasta with spicy chicken. Translating to "rooster's crest" due to its shape, this is a unique pasta you may not have spotted on your supermarket shelves. Regardless, it's perfectly accompanied in this dish by a red pepper and chilli sauce. It's a slightly lighter dish, given it isn't full of cream or cheese, but is jam-packed with flavour. And don't let the spicy advertisement put you off. This is a dish that has a slight kick in the back of your mouth, but one which is not overpowering. 

Of course, no good Italian meal is truly complete without a sweet treat. Tiramisu and gelato are arguably the most popular Italian desserts in the United Kingdom, so we were determined to sample both.

The tiramisu was delightful and certainly did not disappoint. The dark chocolate was rich, the sponge light and fluffy, while the trademark flavour of coffee did not overpower the rest of the dessert.

As for the vanilla gelato, the two healthy scoops were a perfect palate cleanser after the rich pasta main courses and I felt immediately transported to gelato I enjoyed years ago on my last visit to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Once again, there are options for everyone with sorbetto and affogato also on the menu. 

The drinks

Pasta Evangelists offers an extensive selection of drinks to suit all tastes, so you certainly won't have to opt for a stereotypical Coca-Cola if you don't want to. 

Wines are from various regions of Italy, while cocktails such as the bellini, negroni and Aperol spritz are also Italian classics.

But while there are plenty of alcoholic drinks available on this menu, we decided to opt for some alcohol-free cocktails to start the evening.

The standout is the passion fruit cooler. A refreshing mix of passion fruit nectar, orange juice and lime, it's served in a short glass. Put simply, this is exactly what a non-alcoholic cocktail should be, not just a juice masquerading as a pricey option for tee-totallers, but a well thought out combination of ingredients to offer a tropical taste. You don't miss the alcohol but the flavour and taste still pack a punch.

The verdict

Pasta Evangelists, Harrods offers a delicious culinary journey, with dishes that will leave you wholly satisfied (and stuffed!).

If you're looking for an overstated restaurant with glitz and glam, this may not be the place for you. Instead, this eatery delivers the quiet luxury you'd expect from Harrods and fits in perfectly, focusing on relaxation as much as enjoyment.

Rebekah Evans was a guest at Pasta Evangelists, The Restaurants – Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, London SW1X 7XL. Tel: (+44) 020 7225 6800