Riviera review: Cote d'Azur vibes in central London

Located just minutes from Green Park, and opened in spring this year, Riviera is the new belle on the block on St James's Street in central London. Elegant and flirty, this olive-lined restaurant is the French little sister in the Emerald Hospitality group, which includes Como Garden (Italian), Zuaya (Latin American) and El Norte (Spanish). Each concept is an ode to the cuisine and culture of that place, conceived by 26-year-old Spanish twin brothers Arian and Alberto Zandi (both featured in the Forbes 30 Under 30 list for 2023). Riviera, as you might guess, is inspired by the balmy climes and gourmet delights of St Tropez, Cannes, Nice and Antibes. 

The vibe

Think Cote d'Azur beach club meets luxury hotel bar. Riviera's central dining lounge – "Amelia" – captures the warm earthiness and light of France's south. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the dining space with natural light and the design is gentle. Organic textures combine with hues of pink, brown and gold for a distinct femininity. The music is curated to be uplifting, non-intrusive and provide good vibes all round. Influenced by the Provençal art movement – notably Pablo Picasso and Le Corbusier – geometric shapes, sculptures and paintings line the walls. Most of it from the personal collection of the Zandi brothers.

The menu

South of France inspired, with trendy elements sure to please a crowd. The food is mostly light, but with splashes of decadence, and the unmistakable mark of quality ingredients. Seafood sourced from the shores of the Cote d'Azur is the main draw of this menu – from king scallops in beurre blanc to sea bass carpaccio with blood orange and burrata. The grilled octopus with chimichurri and cauliflower puree, for us, was the star of the show. Those seeking something more sumptuous can opt for the truffle and cheese gnocchi, or the filet mignon with black pepper sauce. For a moreish starter or side, the tartare is a must.

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The drinks

Riviera's playful range of cocktails encapsulate its youthful spirit. The bar itself is a gorgeous centrepiece to the Amelia lounge. Drawing on rich French flavours such as coffee, cream, peach and vanilla, Mediterranean and French-Caribbean fruits are used as a refreshing offset. For the sweet toothed, try a "Sexy French Popcorn" that combines popcorn syrup, cacao blanc liqueur and vanilla vodka. For the sophisticated guest, a "Figue Side Car" features cognac infused with fig. Or for a boost, a Riviera Espresso Martini. 

As to be expected for any restaurant inspired by France, there is a decent wine list curated to include most key wine regions in the country. For those who like to learn while they eat, there is a brief description of what to expect from each terroir. The wine-obsessed might feel a little restricted, but there are some special bottles if you search for them. If your palate fancies some New World wine, or a hop over to neighbouring Italy or Spain, there is also an international section.

The verdict

With autumn/winter 2023 in full swing, Riviera is the perfect spot for a bit of summer nostalgia. The heated terrace means you can sit outside for an al fresco dinner despite the cranky weather, and let the cuisine transport you back to warmer times. For those seeking the full experience, the restaurant is putting on a couple of events: Summer Flash Back on 25 November and Monte Carlo on 31 December. Make a reservation in advance to bag a spot.

Sofia Gymer was a guest of Riviera. 23 St James's St, St. James's, London SW1A 1HA; riviera-london.co.uk 

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