A long weekend in Zürich

The vibrant Swiss city is far more than just a banking hub

Zurich river during sunrise.
Zürich: a city that will surpass your expectations
(Image credit: rudi1976 / Alamy)

It may be known as a global centre of banking and finance, but Zürich is far from stuffy. With its medieval old town, rich artistic heritage and vibrant outdoor scene, this is a city that will surpass your expectations.

As Switzerland's largest city, with a population of more than 420,000, the centre hums with life as you explore its picturesque lanes and squares. It sits at the northern tip of the 25-mile-long Lake Zürich, with views towards the Glarner Alps in the south. Life here revolves around the water, with sailing, swimming, kayaking and paddleboarding a daily sight, both on the lake and on the Limmat River, which flows through the city.

Indoors, you'll find some of Switzerland's best museums, boutique shops and gourmet restaurants. So whether it's enjoying fondue with a view of the powdery white Alps, or exploring an underground art gallery with the artistic stars of tomorrow, you'll find something you love in Zürich.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/flexiimages/jacafc5zvs1692883516.jpg

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

Things to do

Munsterhof square in Zurich.

Münsterhof square in Zürich's old town

(Image credit: eFesenko / Alamy)

It is well worth spending some time wandering around Zürich's old town, either independently or on one of the many tours. Make sure not to miss the Bahnhofstrasse shopping street, Münsterhof square, the Grossmünster and Fraumünster churches, and the view from Lindenhof square.

The Zürich Card (56 Swiss francs, or £51, for 72 hours) gives you access to the public transportation network as well as free admission to museums, and discounts in some of Zürich's stores, restaurants and clubs. You can also use it to go on a boat tour of either the lake or river.

Use your card to try out some of the city's museums, including Switzerland's largest art museum, the Kunsthaus Zürich; the birthplace of the art movement Dada, Cabaret Voltaire; the National Museum; and the tower of the Grossmünster. You can also get out of the city to Zürich West, an industrial quarter turned super-cool district.

Football fans visiting for the 2025 women's Euros in July will enjoy the Fifa Museum, which is also included with the pass, where you can learn about the early years of the sport, as well as see the World Cup trophy in real life.

If you're feeling sporty, try hiking up Mount Uetliberg, which is accessible by an unusual railway line that, at a gradient of 7.9%, is the steepest standard gauge adhesion railway in Europe. You can also go for a swim at one of the many bathhouses lining the banks of Lake Zürich; the Utoquai resort is a lovely historical spot to take a dip.

Eating and drinking

Cheese fondue with a basked of bread and glass of white wine.

Sample local specialities from schnitzel to cheese fondue

(Image credit: Smith Archive / Alamy)

There's no end to the culinary delights you can enjoy here, and with a city of this size you can expect food from around the world.

For traditional Swiss fare check out Zunfthaus zur Waag or Zeughauskeller, where you can sample local specialities like schnitzel, veal cutlets and rostis. And if it's fondue you're after – and it is Switzerland after all – you should try Le Dézaley, Swiss Chuchi and Restaurant Felsenegg, which you can access by cable car.

For vegetarians, Hiltl should almost be a pilgrimage. Founded in 1898, it was the first veggie eatery in history, and has always championed cuisines from around the world. STAMP is the place to go for a good burger, while you can find delicious Japanese flavours at Yu-An.

If you fancy a mimosa and brunch with a view, then Rooftop is the place to go, Dr Zhivago Bar has truly innovative cocktails and spirits, and 169 West is a great spot for a glass of natural wine.

Where to stay

The Dolder Grand Hotel.

The Dolder Grand sits high above the city in a peaceful forest on the Adlisberg mountain

(Image credit: The Dolder Grand)

The Dolder Grand is the grande dame of Zürich, and famous worldwide for its luxury and hospitality. Founded in 1899, it launched a four-year restoration helmed by renowned architect Norman Foster in 2008, the result of which are two contemporary glass and steel wings that flank the original Belle Époque hotel.

It sits high above the city in a peaceful forest on the Adlisberg mountain, but it is still easily accessible using the Dolderbahn funicular railway or the hotel's private shuttle. Most of its 175 rooms have sweeping views over Lake Zürich towards the Alps to the south. In one of the new wings you will find the Dolder Spa, with its 25-metre swimming pool and outdoor whirlpool and cold plunge pool overlooking the lake and mountains.

The Restaurant is the hotel's signature culinary offering, with two-Michelin-starred Heiko Nieder at the helm. You can find Alpine-inspired fare at Saltz, where the Angus steak with saffron risotto was life-changing, and vegetarian food at Blooms. Every three months a pop-up restaurant changes its concept, serving dishes from around the world.

Jaymi McCann was a guest of The Dolder Grand and Zürich Tourism