The Yucatán Peninsula is Mexico’s prime tourist hotspot, but most visitors stay in the north, around the “mega-resort” of Cancún and the stretch of Caribbean coast known as the Riviera Maya. The south of the peninsula is a different world, said Martin Symington in The Times – a vast, sparsely populated region which is relatively little visited by holidaymakers.
The distances involved in exploring it are considerable (the Yucatán, which stretches into Belize and Guatemala, is nearly as big as Great Britain), but so are the rewards. As you head south from Cancún, low forest and scrub give way to “deeper, darker” forest, and hidden away among it are some “magical” places, including one particularly “stupefying” sight – the ancient Mayan city of Ichkabal.
In the north, I stayed at Belmond Maroma, “a peach of a beach-fringed hideaway”, and visited the old colonial town of Valladolid, as well as the spectacular Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá – “an archaeological honeypot up there with Petra or Giza”. Ichkabal feels very different. Its biggest pyramid, at 40 metres high, is taller than Chichén Itzá’s, and stands beside a “stadium-sized” central precinct surrounded by other monumental structures. All are half-covered in vegetation, and set in an “impenetrable” rainforest that stretches further than the eye can see.
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This city reached its zenith between AD200-600, and was later abandoned and – incredibly – only rediscovered in 1994, when archaeologists working on another project “stumbled” upon it. Last year, it was opened to visitors, and yet – while I came across several jungle creatures (including a crocodile swimming in one of the city’s original reservoirs) – I saw only a handful of other tourists. Other unmissable sights include the Lagoon of Seven Colours, a narrow, 60km-long lake. Its water is wonderfully clear – great for snorkelling – and there are some “tranquil” boutique hotels on its shores, including the Habitas Bacalar.
