Cliveden House review: an 'elegant' and 'sprawling' country escape

History is everywhere at Cliveden, the mansion that can trace its roots back to the 17th century and which played a central role in a 1960s political scandal. Now, as well as a dramatic backstory, it offers an enchanting escape from the modern world, with everything you'd expect from a luxury five-star hotel. 

Why stay here?

Cliveden has been home to generations of English nobility, so by staying here you will be following in some notable footsteps. 

The 2nd Duke of Buckingham had the first house built here in 1666, while the 1st Duke of Westminster, one of the richest men in England, owned the current house and gardens between 1868 and 1893. 

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Cliveden then became home to the Astor family of American millionaires. Between the First and Second World Wars it hosted many glamorous parties, with guests including Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin, Amy Johnson and Mahatma Gandhi. 

Most famously, or notoriously, it was at a Cliveden party in 1961 that Conservative minister John Profumo met a 19-year-old dancer Christine Keeler. They began an affair, but Keeler was also involved with a Russian spy and the ensuing scandal led to the toppling of the Conservative government in 1964.

If luxury is more your thing than history, Cliveden can tick that box too. Even with 48 rooms and suites, it maintains a sense of intimacy. Yet the mansion is sprawling and the gardens vast, meaning there's always a feeling of space. A well appointed spa adds plenty of opportunity for further indulgences and relaxation. 

Guests' needs are very well attended to from the friendly staff, many of whom will address you personally. Just a 40-minute drive from central London, it's also very convenient and well connected, perfect for stealing a short-notice night or two away for some much needed respite.

Although the hotel is family-friendly – children even stay free in the school holidays – it is probably best suited as a couple's overnight getaway, a place for friends to get together, or gathering to celebrate a special occasion. 

Eating and drinking 

The hotel has two restaurants to choose from. Located in the old stables block is the more relaxed Astor Grill, and although lacking any particular views, its contemporary menu and large outdoor seating area mean it is perfect for a long lunch – or drinks – on a summer's day.

The Cliveden Dining Room is the formal restaurant, located in the elegant French Dining Room. Its huge full-height sash windows allow you to drink in the spectacular views in all their glory. 

With three-course à la carte or seven-course tasting menus to choose between, the three AA Rosettes restaurant is perfect for special occasions. The English-focused menu uses locally sourced ingredients and head chef Christopher Hannon has ensured plant-based options are particularly strong.

The indulgent afternoon tea – also served in the main dining room – is very popular with non-residents alike, offering a welcome refuel after a long walk around the grounds. It's also the perfect way to mark an occasion such as a birthday or anniversary.

The bar, located in the old library, is a wonderfully cosy affair in the evening. There are wood panelled walls and large gilded frame paintings, but thanks to enormous floor-to-ceiling sash windows, it's also a great spot to enjoy a pot of tea in the daytime too.

However, due to the estate's unfortunate history with fires (the first and second great houses here were burnt down), the open fires are fuelled by gas, with log fires simply not allowed due to the risk. 

Rooms and suites  

Cliveden has 48 bedrooms and suites, including the three-bedroom Spring Cottage, which sits on the banks of the River Thames. All bedrooms are double rooms and there are several interconnecting rooms and suites available that can create a two-bedroom option. 

Each room is named after a prominent guest or figure from Cliveden's illustrious past: from Churchill to Chaplin, Astor to Orkney and Sutherland to the Prince of Wales. 

Rooms are individually decorated with antique furnishings, rich fabrics, and original artwork and oil paintings, ensuring a unique experience. 

Located in the more modern East and West Wings are a handful of rooms and suites boasting private hot tubs: needless to say they're particularly popular.

Facilities  

For those seeking relaxation and rejuvenation, the Cliveden Spa is the perfect accompaniment to the hotel. 

There are seven treatment rooms, both indoor and outdoor pools, a well-equipped gym with high-end Technogym gear, infrared sauna, aromatherapy steam room, indoor Jacuzzi, and outdoor hot tubs. 

For the more active guests, there are indoor and outdoor tennis courts, as well as a wealth of running and walking opportunities in the grounds. 

Things to do near Cliveden

The obliging concierge team will be on hand prior to and throughout your stay, making arrangements for any excursions. 

The hotel offers a host of country sports, such as archery, axe throwing, laser clay shooting and air-rifle target shooting. There is also clay pigeon shooting – and tuition – offered on the nearby West Wycombe Estate. You could also try your hand at the family falconry activity; art experiences that take place from the property's balcony overlooking the grounds; or even foraging with a wildlife expert. 

Being situated on the banks of the Thames, the hotel offers various river excursions, from a private boat picnic, to a ride on a vintage launch with Laurent-Perrier champagne to boot.

Windsor Castle is also nearby, as well as Highclere Castle (made famous in "Downton Abbey"). For families, Legoland is just 20 minutes' drive away.

The verdict 

Cliveden offers uninterrupted views across its 376 acres of National Trust formal gardens and parkland. With the River Thames glinting below, it is difficult to imagine a more picturesque setting.

Whether you answer the beckoning call of a late afternoon riverside stroll, or enjoy well-earned drinks in the wonderful old library, this is an ideal countryside escape right on London's doorstep.

Fergus Scholes was a guest of Cliveden House. Room rates start at £445 to £2,250 (Spring Cottage), depending on availability and type of room or suite.