Hotel-hopping in Shanghai

On Shanghai's Bund, it's a relief to see the waterfront thronged with people. Last time I stood here – back in February 2020, in the first days of the Covid-19 pandemic – I was entirely alone. The day after my arrival, nearly everything shut down. Instead of meetings, dinners and exhibitions, I spent disorienting days wandering the deserted streets of one of the world's most populous cities, and nights confined to my hotel room. Now that international tourism to China is slowly recovering, incentivised by the country's recently introduced policy of 10-day visa-free travel for foreign tourists, I've returned to explore three of Shanghai's top hotels.

Pared back luxury at Sukhothai Shanghai

On a blustery December morning, the cup of ginger tea offered at the Sukhothai's reception is a thoughtful welcome. Upstairs, my Studio King room is capacious, with a king-size bed and multiple seating areas. Large windows reveal views over the upmarket Jing'an district.

Designed by interiors firm Neri & Hu, much of the room's minimal yet comfortable furniture comes from the company's Stella Works brand. Crafted from a stunning charcoal-coloured marble, the rainfall shower and bath ooze luxury, even if they're a little claustrophobic banished to the back corner. The plush bathrobes, however, are divine.

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Breakfast is an abundance of Western and Chinese offerings served buffet-style, an increasingly common practice at luxury Shanghai hotels. The basement houses a moodily-lit pool that has the air of a Bond villain's lair, as well as a Thai-inspired spa. I didn’t use the spa, but the Sukhothai's treatment rooms are the nicest of all the hotels I stayed in; some include saunas and Jacuzzi baths. Modern and design-forward, the Sukhothai seems best suited to business trips and city break weekends.

Effortless cool at the Middle House

A short stroll away, the Middle House is exceedingly fashionable. Its interiors, an effortless blend of Shanghai cool and Italian glamour, are by famed designer Piero Lissoni. The hotel's entrance epitomises Lissoni's design philosophy: a 3,760-piece Murano chandelier set against bamboo-green handmade ceramic tiles.

Although my Studio 60 room is smaller than the Sukhothai's, the floor-to-ceiling glass windows make it feel spacious and the view from the 21st floor is spectacular. Dark wood floors channel the eye to the windows and European-style furniture is offset with artwork by young Chinese artists. The roomy walk-in closet makes unpacking a dream, and thoughtful extras like a yoga mat and weights allow me to work out in my room. The glass-walled bathroom is well laid out with a pair of Claybrook sinks and bath. Set next to the main window, the rainfall shower steals the show – if you don’t mind heights, the views are incredible.

In the soothing surroundings of the Mi Xun Spa, I try an INDIBA healing treatment using radiofrequency electrodes. It's an interesting experience, although no more relaxing than an electrode-free massage. Both on-site restaurants are excellent, especially the exceptional dim sum at Sui Tang Li. Don't miss the seasonal hairy crab noodles and the signature mango pudding.

Pampering at PuLi Hotel and Spa

The PuLi is old-school luxury and from the moment I cross the threshold I feel cosseted. The atmosphere of luxe calm is helped by the hotel's location on the edge of Jing'an Park. The ground floor bar, Michelin star restaurant, Phenix, and swimming pool all look out over the park's sweep of trees. Sitting at the superb Long Bar is like stepping into Hasegawa Tohaku's famous painting of pines. Sadly, one of the hotel's most impressive features, its gorgeous 25-metre indoor pool, is being refurbished during my stay, but it's one of the most beautiful urban hotel pools around. Spa treatments at UR are exceptional, carried out by highly skilled technicians, and worth every penny. A mid-morning facial gave me luminous skin for the rest of the day.

Interiors are by Australian firm Layan Design Group and my Grand room is elegant and pared back with silk wall coverings and spotlit antiques on plinths. Sliding doors screen the bathroom from the bedroom and the palatial bath set into the main window is a dream. However, some of the decor could do with a refresh; the bathroom sinks are small and the blinds are cumbersome and unattractive.

What to see and do

For cocktails, head to E.P.I.C in the French Concession. Expect inventive drinks like the 'Beijing', a pairing of bourbon and caramelised duck fat in a nod to the capital's famous roast duck.

Shanghai has some of the best street food in the world, but sometimes you need a helping hand to find it. UnTour has wonderful guides and will take you to visit some of the top eateries in the city. I'm a big fan of the breakfast tour.

For museums, the newly opened Shanghai Museum East in Pudong is incredible. Spanning nearly 120,000 square metres of galleries, you could easily spend an entire day here. Best of all, entrance is free.

Shanghai's contemporary art scene is undergoing something of a resurgence. Of current exhibitions, Rindon Johnson's Best Synthetic Answer (until April 2025) at Rockbund is worth a visit, as is Cao Fei's incredible mid-career survey at Museum of Art Pudong (until February 2025). Suzhou Creek, a happening new art district, houses UCCA Edge and Suhe Haus. At the latter, Three-Body Art Project (until February 2025), curated by Iris Long, showcases work inspired by the books of famed science fiction author Cixin Liu.

Crystal was a guest of the Sukhothai Shanghai, the Middle House and the PuLi Hotel and Spa