Hotel Giardino Ascona: a glorious garden retreat on Lake Maggiore

At the northern end of Lake Maggiore, as one steps out of Italy and into the Swiss canton of Ticino, the pace slows (if that's possible), the skies become bluer and the lemon trees more fragrant. In Ascona, an arty enclave towards Maggiore's northernmost tip, the merging of mountain and lake is every bit as dramatic as it is in Como, its bigger, more famous Italian neighbour to the south. The microclimate is positively Mediterranean and the luxury far less studied. And, for most of the year, apart from the regular cohort of bronzed German retirees, the town remains comparatively under the radar.

On the edge of town, garnished in palms and bougainvillea, Hotel Giardino Ascona is a paragon of five-star hospitality: a slick and generous operation, furnished with trademark good humour, that revolves around the gardens that give it its name.

Why stay here?

Much of the hotel's slickness is down to its chief concierge, Claudio Cesar, twice named best concierge by the prestigious Les Clefs d'Or. His instinct for what might impress a guest at any particular moment is beyond telepathic. "Speedboat to the Brissago Islands? The captain is waiting for you at the port. And he's got armbands for the kids. Oh look, here's your shuttle. There's a cool bag with champagne in the boot."

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He's far from the only staff member operating at this level. General manager Wolfram Merket regularly takes guests on early morning sojourns up to Monte Verità for impromptu trumpet lessons, restaurant manager Mauro is known to break into opera during wine tastings in the hotel's wine cellar, and whenever our son crouched next to the carp pond, someone appeared at his shoulder with a pouchful of fish food.

Beyond the personalities, what makes the place so special is what lies outdoors: its manicured lawns, exquisite planting and impeccable landscape design. For this is less a hotel, and more a garden with rooms (54) and suites (18). The grounds are full of surprises – the football pitch, the yoga pavilion, the kids' pool, the wedding party – all tucked away neatly behind some carefully topiarised foliage. As for those rooms and suites, they're very pleasant, as is hotel's state-of-the-art dipiù spa – but until the sun sets, the bar closes and the ever-charming Claudio stands down, there are far more entertaining places to be.

Eating and drinking

The hotel has two restaurants: Hide & Seek for seasonal, Ayurvedic-inspired cuisine and, for something truly memorable, the two-Michelin-starred Ecco. The latter, now overseen by Reto Brändli, is feted around the world for its intricate French tasting menus. The Swiss chef focuses on seasonal ingredients and champions a dish that first brought him international acclaim: the doubly indulgent foie gras with lobster.

Risotto is something of a local delicacy. At 197m above sea level, and with their proximity to the lake, the fields surrounding Ascona are (it was discovered in 1997) perfect for cultivating rice. For the tastiest risotto, head for the traditional grottos hidden in the hills above town – or, for that matter, the annual Risotto Festival, a mile or so around the bay in Locarno, which celebrates its 10th year this summer (22-23 August).

Things to do

For those who live here, life in Ascona revolves around the lido, ostensibly split into three parts. Closest to the town, the public beach is naturally the busiest bit: lots of picnic blankets and homemade sandwiches, grandparents paddling in the shallows and, as the sun sets, live music and families dancing barefoot.

The ticketed stretch offers comfy sun loungers, obliging waiters, volleyball and a postcard-worthy diving board. And further up, Seven Senses Beach Club might be where you'd head for a long lunch, a half-decent soundtrack or a cabana. To the rear of the beach club, you'll find Golf Club Patriziale Ascona, one of Switzerland's most prestigious and beautiful courses.

Overlooking the lake is Monte Verità, a former nudist-colony-cum-spiritual-refuge once popular among countercultural writers, artists, naturalists and philosophers, now serving as a cultural hub with literary events, an open-air theatre, Europe's only tea plantation and a museum.

Otherwise, most of the action happens on Ascona's colourful, restaurant-lined promenade and within the charming cobbled streets of the old town – not least JazzAscona, one of the world's leading festivals dedicated to all things New Orleans (Ascona's official sister city). This year, for its 40th edition (26 June-5 July), over 200 free concerts will take place, encompassing jazz, swing, blues, R&B, gospel and soul.

Alex was a guest of Hotel Giardino Ascona: giardinohotels.ch