Angsana Velavaru: a snorkeller’s delight

While the island of Velavaru has not been immune to the scourge of bleached coral, which, over the past ten years, has blighted reefs as far afield as Australia and the Caribbean - it has escaped with far less damage than many of its neighbours.

At many Maldivian resorts, the coral looks all but dead and the reefs barren and grey, even if they are brightened by large shoals of tropical fish. At Angsana Velavaru, by contrast, large parts of the reef remain alive and well, with healthy coral under crystalline waters.

What to do

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Diving and snorkelling are the key attractions here. The dive centre runs twice-daily scuba trips, one in the morning and one in the evening, and can arrange night dives by request. Daily snorkelling trips take guests out of the lagoon to swim along the outer edge of the reef, which is patrolled by whitetip reef sharks - harmless creatures, but unnerving nonetheless, the biggest of them measuring a metre and a half. Between May and December, you may be lucky enough to see an even larger visitor: the enormous (plankton-eating) whale-shark, which can reach lengths of 20 metres.

Big beasts aside, you will see vast shoals of blue-and-yellow angelfish, as well as oriental sweetlips and the occasional clown fish. Moray eels lurk amid the flourishing coral near the ocean villas, while stingrays cruise by, lazily surfing the current until, with a flap of their wings, they propel themselves into the deeper waters beyond the reef. From time to time a green sea turtle sculls effortlessly past, craning its necks to get a better view of its curious visitors.

The resort also organises sunset cruises, fuelled by champagne and canapes and, on most evenings, enlivened by sightings of dolphins that jump and spin in the shimmering breakers. More energetic watersports, including sessions on the jet-ski or banana boat, can be organised at the dive centre.

Land-based activities centre on the excellent spa, where shady outdoor treatment rooms, all in their own walled gardens, allow for massages and treatments cooled by a gentle sea breeze.

Which rooms?

Angsana Velavaru consists of two semi-independent resorts connected by a regular ferry service. On one side is the island, home to the spa, the dive centre and a collection of beach villas. On the other are the ocean villas, connected by a boardwalk over the reef.

While the ocean villas (top image) are very spacious, they have a slightly industrial feel to them and the decor is dated (an ongoing programme of refurbishments will replace the tiling and wooden decks). The beach villas, meanwhile, are undergoing more extensive renovations, and will reopen in August with a bright, modern look. The pick of them are on the northern and eastern side of the island, overlooking the prettiest beaches and the calmest, clearest water.

When to go

If you plan to spend all of your time diving, you might be prepared to risk a rainy holiday and take advantage of the cheaper and quieter monsoon months, from June to September. You might get lucky, too: there’s plenty of sunshine during this period, even if it’s a bit less reliable, and temperatures remains at their balmy norm of 28C to 32C. Skies clear and prices rise during October, and then the peak season runs from November to April, when the weather takes a turn for the changeable again.

How to get there

British Airways flies non-stop from London to Male from October to March, from £710 return. Qatar Airways, Emirates and Etihad all fly to Male year round from a range of UK airports, with a connection in Doha, Dubai or Abu Dhabi, from about £650 return. The resort can arrange seaplane transfers between Male and Velavaru, a journey of about 40 minutes.

How to book

For more information and to book, visit angsana.com. Beach villas are available from about £850 per night, including breakfast - and until 19 December 2019, guests will benefit from a special offer to mark Angsana’s 25th anniversary, including 25% off rooms, restaurant bills and spa treatments.