Discreet decadence: COMO The Halkin review

Belgravia is a neighbourhood of London inextricably linked with making a statement. From the architects that once constructed its towering Georgian mansions and imposing national embassies, to the teenage heirs and heiresses who now cruise around Belgrave Square in their Lamborghinis, Belgravia is all about bigger, better and more.

However, in a cosy sidestreet off Belgrave Square and nestled below an arching canopy of beautiful oak trees sits COMO The Halkin, one of the most enticingly discreet yet luxurious hotels in West London. And while many of the world's most opulent hotels base their design on that quintessentially Belgravian grandeur, COMO The Halkin flips that idea on its head and then some.

From the outside, COMO The Halkin boasts a classic - and almost untouched - Georgian facade of Portland stone and arched windows, topped with a gorgeous curved mansard roof, evoking the atmoshpere of an era long since passed, of gaslights and horse-drawn carriages.

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The inside, however, is rather surprising. Considered one of London's first ever boutique hotels, The Halkin is - by the essence of its design - a sleek, fresh and contemporary establishment, embellished with small flourishes of old-school style but dominated by a sharp modernism.

For example upon arrival into the lobby, the grand Italian marble floor may catch your eye, but its Armani-adorned staff, Miro-esque ceiling art and gargantuan vault-like wooden restaurant doors belie a contemporary heart beating at its core.

But perhaps the most noticeable aspect of the reception and communal areas is their somewhat diminutive scale, with the lobby, bar and restaurant restricted to one small ground-floor space that lends a cosy, exclusive air to the hotel. And it's not until you head upstairs to The Halkin's 41 exquisite rooms and suites that you can truly appreciate the benefits of this peculiar layout.

Every inch of floor space missing from the hotel's grand entrance is made up for in its almost outrageously spacious rooms, each one with a tasteful, considered layout slightly different from the next, and free of any unecessary clutter.

A London boutique hotel with deeply entrenched Milanese blood in it veins, the muted pallete of the rooms - dominated by crisp, airy white walls and maple wood panelling - lend a tangible openness to the spaces, with even the smallest City Rooms offering a pleasant 33sq m in which to stretch out. The Belgravia suite, in particular, offers a beautiful, almost hangar-like curved ceiling, giving the illusion of even more space.

The bathrooms too are gloriously generous, and coated in a smart marble framework, the colour of which corresponds to both the storey they are on and to one of the five elements; earth, water, air, fire and sky. Each bathroom is also fitted with a large clawfoot tub and a surround-sound Bluetooth audio system built into the walls.

Where COMO The Halkin is notable for its restraint, the hotel's restaurants are decadent by comparison. Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, the Halkin's Michelin starred house restaurant, serves up a wildly adventurous menu of Basque favourites, offering samples of the region's hearty fish- and meat-based staples with a contemporary twist, envisioned by head chef Ruben Briones and his team.

The restaurant has also teamed up with The Halkin Bar in the main foyer to offer one of the most extraordinary afternoon teas in the city. The ever-changing menu features everything from txangurro spider crab to the sweet, spicy tang of txistorra sausage.

The dessert course is a whirlwind of flavours, with mouthwatering churros and torija alonside the centrepiece of the course, a creamy puree of smoked pineapple encased in a white chocolate shell, dyed with obsidian blackcurrant and placed under a miniature cloche. Complex, tart and - in the words of bar manager Mario - the “most important dish in the tapas,” it really has to be tried to be believed.

Boutique hotels, although a vague term in itself, occasionally fall foul of an unfocused design vision, with overwraught fussiness and unnecessary furnishings. With The Halkin, however, COMO has created a charming boutique hotel without the usual hipster clutter, harnessing the building's classic design while forging a contemporary, sophisticated hotel in the heart of West London.

Room rates at COMO The Halkin start from £284 in a City Room based on two people sharing on a bed & breakfast basis, also inclusive of WiFi, complimentary drink on arrival, complimentary use of the gym facilities. To book and for more information visit comohotels.com/thehalkin