Gordon Ramsay flies the flag for British veal

After decades in the culinary doghouse, veal is back on the menu. The Maze Grill Park Walk, Gordon Ramsay's Chelsea restaurant, will present a four-course extravaganza on 16 May to herald a new partnership between the chef and two Lake District veal farmers, Andrew and Angela Barraclough.

The Barracloughs turned to veal after the foot-and-mouth crisis of 2001. Rebuilding their dairy herd, they were struck by the wasteful nature of an industry in which male calves - milkless and therefore surplus to requirements - are often slaughtered at birth.

"It broke my heart," says Andrew. "We had a run of bull calves and it was such a waste." To him, rearing and eating veal is the ethical thing to do. "If you drink the milk," he says, "you have a responsibility to eat the meat."

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To him, rearing and eating veal is the ethical thing to do. "If you drink the milk," he says, "you have a responsibility to eat the meat."

That may sound surprising to British ears. Many UK consumers regard veal with suspicion, recalling images of young animals tethered in crates, unable to move or lie down, even though such methods were outlawed across the EU more than a decade ago and long before that in the UK.

Now, even animal welfare groups acknowledge that Britain leads the way. "Veal does not need to be a cruel meal," says Compassion in World Farming. "Calves reared to UK standard are provided with bedding and younger calves receive double the amount of fibrous food compared to continental veal calves. Older UK calves have greater space allowance than stipulated in EU law."

In fact, British squeamishness about veal may actually lead to more suffering. "Unfortunately, very few calves are reared for veal in Great Britain due to low demand for this meat," the charity says. As a result, more male calves are sent on long journeys to mainland Europe where they're reared to lower standards.

The RSPCA agrees. "We hope there will be an increase in the number of calves going into the UK beef chain and fewer calves being killed soon after birth on-farm or being transported long distances to the continent," it says.

Ramsay, whose three Maze Grill restaurants are all putting veal on their permanent menus, says he's proud to do his bit. "It is important for the public to be educated on British rose veal to dispel the often-misunderstood view behind its production," he says. "The dishes that will be served during an Eve of Veal at Maze Grill will showcase the incredible versatility of veal."

For anyone whose main experience of the meat has been eyeing up tired-looking wiener schnitzels in continental delis, Ramsay's menu may come as a revelation.

Diners will be greeted with cocktails and canapes and then have a choice of starters, including veal cheek "lollipops" with wheatgrass and veal rump carpaccio with crispy kale and confit egg. Main courses include sirloin steak on the bone, veal shin and marrow ravioli, a delicately flavoured veal sausage with wild onion gravy and smoked veal short rib, brined for three hours, smoked for eight hours and steamed for a whole day.

Andrew is full of praise for what has been achieved with what is, after all, a by-product of the dairy industry. "It's our job to get the meat right and then their job to turn it into something like this," he says, waving a glistening forkful of short rib. "We're delighted with what they've done."

The Eve of Veal is on 16 May at Maze Grill Park Walk, Chelsea, London, and costs £50 per person. Paired wines are an additional £35. To make a reservation, email experiences@gordonramsay.com or phone 0207 592 1226, or for more information visit gordonramsayrestaurants.com