Meat the neighbours: Hanger & Cellar restaurant review

A mere olive stone’s throw from Fulham Broadway tube station, Hanger & Cellar is a laid-back steakhouse with the feel of an upmarket New York diner or burger bar.

Recently refurbished in monochrome tones, with stylish wood and metal furnishings, the vibe is casually cool and the staff efficient and friendly, while the sounds and smells from the open-plan kitchen entice. All the steaks are delivered fresh daily by award-winning Smithfield butchers Tom Hixson, and grilled over charcoal for maximum flavour. There’s also a great choice of drinks both in the restaurant and from the 1920s-style bar in the cellar below, which offers a bespoke cocktail menu - surely the best way to start a night out.

The wine list - a make-or-break ingredient for a decent steakhouse - features a range of whites, reds and rosé, both old world and new, at prices that won’t hit the pocket too hard. The house wine is a reasonable £20 a bottle and very quaffable. There’s also a good choice of draught, craft and bottled beer. We settled for the earthier end of the list and chose a barrel-aged Spanish tempranillo, which lived up to expectations. I was also tempted by the “Passion has Red Lips” shiraz cabernet, from Aussie winemakers Some Young Punks, if only for the name.

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The food menu is equally inspiring, with a varied yet unfussy selection. The starters alone deserve an accolade. A cod cheek tempura was light and crispy, and the fish wonderfully tender. Our other choice, pig’s head croquette with lovage pesto, was also a winner. I’m partial to nose-to-tail eating, and Mr Pig’s bonce did not disappoint, with a full, rich taste. The lovage added a parsley piquance, while the sharpness of the pesto provided a perfect balance to the creamy smoothness of the croquette. Other tempting starter options include fried baby squid and a rainbow trout ceviche, but we had to leave room for the steak.

I went for the hanger steak, reasoning that given the restaurant’s name, its chefs should know what they’re doing. What arrived was 300gr of prime British beef cooked to medium-rare perfection, with a sizzled outside and a juicy red interior. It comes sliced on a board, with a choice of sauces - Bearnaise, a fiery chimichurri, salsa verde, or sherry and pink peppercorn - and chips on the side. A steak needs a good chip - these were perfect.

My other half had the marinated picanha “asada”, steak with South American twist, which was equally good, as were our other side dishes: market greens with almonds and garlic, and a mixed leaf salad with citrus dressing. Mains-wise, gourmands may also want to check out the dry-aged cote de boeuf, which is enough for two and looked excellent, and the spice charred monkfish tail - always a good choice in a steakhouse as this flavoursome fish that won’t fall to pieces when grilled, or be overwhelmed by seasoning.

We really didn’t have any room for pudding, but I indulged my inner child and went for banana fritters with chocolate sauce. My partner had a loving spoonful or two. Again, hats off to the kitchen for the lightest, crispiest batter that any self-respecting plantain would happily perish for.

Hanger & Cellar is not just poetry on a plate, it’s a sonnet - and at £85 for two, the bill made for happy reading too.

Hanger & Cellar, 461 North End Rd, SW6 1NZ, hangersteak.co.uk