The best medicine: Waeska at The Mandrake review
Botanical-inspired cocktail menu brings fresh flavours to London bar scene
From the moment you enter the Waeska cocktail bar at The Mandrake, one of London’s newest boutique hotels, the decor promises something out of the ordinary.
A surrealistic half-gazelle, half-peacock figure hangs behind the marble-topped bar, surrounded by tribal-style art and wooden masks.
Opposite the bar, a glass wall offers a more sedate view onto the hotel’s courtyard, artfully strewn with bowers of jasmine.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Overseeing proceedings is Walter Pintus, former head bartender at The Ritz and The Connaught and one of the capital’s undisputed masters of mixology.
His ambitious cocktail menu takes its inspiration from the hotel’s namesake, the mandrake root, traditionally said to have mystical properties.
As such, the ten-strong cocktail list functions as a kind of reimagining of folk medicine and magic, combining foraged plants, rare botanicals and homemade syrups and tinctures.
The Geisha gives some idea of the level of detail behind each recipe - Cocchi Rosa vermouth is cooked sous-vide with pickled cherry blossom, before being combined with champagne, Peychaud bitters and Umeshu plum - yet the result tastes deceptively simple and elegant.
We began with a Satyr - a pert, zingy concoction combining gin, sherry, saffron syrup, citrus and a hint of absinthe - soaking up the spirits with delicious cubes of tapioca and parmesan.
Every member of staff we encountered was charming, knowledgeable, and - best of all - genuinely enthusiastic about the menu. On the advice of our waitress, we sampled the Hedonist, a mellow tropical treat made with coconut-washed rum, orange curacao and a home-made coffee and passion-fruit sherbet.
A more daring offering is the White Witch, a twist on the classic Italian Negroni which is made with truffle-washed vodka and served over a huge sphere of ice.
Pintus explains that the spirit is mixed with truffle oil and then frozen, meaning that the layer of separated oil can be easily removed. The result is vodka with the strong earthy tang of truffle, but not a hint of oily aftertaste.
The pungent smack of truffle is not for the faint-hearted, but, like each of the ten cocktails on the menu, it offers a truly novel experience in London’s crowded cocktail scene.
Waeska cocktail bar at The Mandrake hotel, London W1T 1PG themandrake.com
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Today's political cartoons - May 5, 2024
Cartoons Sunday's cartoons - annoying noises, gag orders, and more
By The Week US Published
-
5 highly educational cartoons about student protests
Cartoons Artists take on apolitical camping, the National Guard, and more
By The Week US Published
-
French schools and the scourge of teenage violence
Talking Point Gabriel Attal announces 'bold' intervention to tackle rise in violent incidents
By The Week UK Published
-
Silversea cruise review: a Central and North American adventure
The Week Recommends An incredible journey featuring cultural exploration, cooking classes, comfort and more
By Yasemen Kaner-White Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published
-
La Zebra review: beach chic, perfect tacos and secret cenotes
The Week Recommends Enjoy a stylish stay in Mexico at this family-friendly beach hotel and restaurant
By William Leigh Published