The back of Victoria Station is not generally known for its fine dining or Sichuan cuisine, but the Dragon Inn Club makes up for its unusual location with high-quality food and service.
The restaurant is on Upper Tachbrook Street - far enough away from the edgier elements that buzz like bluebottles around major transport hubs.
The decor is eclectic Chinese - bamboo screens, terracotta tiles, lanterns, incense and ceramic statues - and a welcome relief from the dated 1970s chrome, faux-leather chairs and boil-washed tablecloths that dominate Soho’s Chinatown.
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The Robata Grill on the ground floor is a casual cocktail bar with light fare - dim sum, Sichuan noodles and street market style plates - while the main restaurant downstairs is divided into dimly lit sections, creating a relaxed tone.
We were seated in the Dragon Dining Room, an intimate space. Importantly, the room's tables are well spaced so guests are not dining in their neighbour’s lap, as often happens in London eateries.
We began with cocktails, a welcome pause before the main event and sizzling climax. I opted for the Monk’s Revival - vodka-based and infused with Red Fortune tea, basil and lemon and topped with diced cucumber. The mix was a refreshing oxymoron - a detox cocktail.
My partner sipped on an Innkeeper’s Delight, a combination of seven-year-old Havana rum, lemon grass, a dash of sake and lychee. He declared it to be “revolutionary”.
The Terracotta Soldier with Chivas Regal and Call Me Geisha - Monkey 47 gin infused with rose and plum flavours - looked tempting, but it was time to move onto supper and the wine list.
We settled on a French house Chardonnay and selected three starters: my partner had soup and pronounced the minced chicken “lion’s head” and “yellow bean broth” to be subtle and warming. (The lion’s head in this instance was a dumpling, rather than the front end of a large carnivore.)
Then came the ribs, a generous portion with an addictive plum sauce, along with a fresh, zesty squid starter.
I stayed with seafood for the main course, ordering the soft shell crab with garlic and Sichuan bell chilli (a very reasonable £14.80). I have not eaten soft-shelled crab since I spent a week by the sea in Montauk, New York many years ago. I’ve been missing out on those gentle crustaceans. The dish arrived sizzling in a large bowl under a canopy of dried chili peppers. The crab was tender and crispy, not at all overwhelmed by the chilli and garlic.
My partner opted for the Sichuan fragrant-spiced fillet steak slices - the Dragon Inn Club being a Sichuan restaurant, after all. The sirloin strips were rich and succulent. The sauce was smooth and peppery. The £26 price was equally pleasing.
We also added sides of egg-fried rice and a steamed pak choi - just enough yin for the yang.
Finally, it was time to push the boat out for pudding. We went for banana slices in a toffee and cinnamon sauce. Our kind waiter suggested a side of green tea iced cream, rather than vanilla, and our final course was a spectacular display.
A trolley appeared containing bottles of various potions, a gas flame at the ready. The waiter flambéed the banana with vanilla syrup, sugar and a dash of brandy, then added a scattering of cinnamon powder which sparked in the flames. (Who doesn’t like a man who plays with fire?)
Banana works well in Asian cooking and this was no exception: sweet but not cloying and the green tea ice cream was a refreshing touch.
For two, the bill came to about £75, excluding alcohol, which was excellent for the quality of food and high level of service.
The Dragon Inn Club will do well with Victoria’s after-hours business crowd, but it’s also a great place to go either a deux or with a larger party. In addition to the main restaurant, there is a private dining suite and eight private booths.
Dragon Inn Club, 16-18 Upper Tachbrook Street Victoria, SW1V 1SH, 020 7821 0105, dragoninnclub.co.uk
