While most of us are starting to think about changing our wardrobe for the spring, the fashion world has been showing us what we’ll be wearing later in the year. London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2018 didn’t fail to impress, with some of the world’s top designers from home and away putting on a dizzying display of style.
From the new kids looking to make their mark to old hands bowing out, it was a fashion feast. Portfolio jumped into the new SEAT Arona and zipped around all the best shows that London Fashion Week had to offer.
Richard Malone
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After storming the fashion world in 2017, Richard Malone was one of the must-sees of the week. The Irish designer was inspired by the market stalls of his native Wexford and presented an eco-conscious show filled with bold shades of reds, blues, purples and greens, reinventing stripes and clashing gingham with houndstooth. Silhouettes were equally larger-than-life – oversized yet sharply structured shoulders and swirls to reflect the strength of the “iron-fisted women” who were his muses.
Ashley Williams
This autumn, the Ashley Williams girl is leaving the laptop behind and exploring the UK “and all its monolithic marvels”. Models strutted around rocks reminiscent of Stonehenge, dressed in comfortable and highly wearable designs sure to make their way onto the high street. Kicking off with soft, feminine frilled dresses in black and white via sassy, sexy, sheer fabrics, slouchy suits and slogan hoodies paired with tie-dye jeans and leopard-print dungarees, this was a collection perfect for women looking for an adventure.
Burberry
The show to see and be seen at – attendees included fashion goddesses Anna Wintour and Kate Moss – Christopher Bailey’s last Burberry collection was a colourful celebration of Britain in all its diversity. To a thumping soundtrack of Bronski Beat and The Communards, models including Adwoa Aboah and Cara Delevingne paraded a rainbow-hued collection mixing around the label’s iconic check. A celebration of his 17 years at the helm of the fashion house, Bailey ran the full gamut of Burberry’s heritage, from classic trenchcoats to chavvy bomber jackets, rich organza and tulle skirts to graffiti-print leggings. Biggest applause of the night was for the designer himself, taking his final Burberry bow.
Jasper Conran
Vibrant tones and clean lines ruled at Jasper Conran’s elegant, sophisticated catwalk. The veteran designer presented a pared-down but vivid colour scheme, offsetting one-colour outfits with subtle textural changes, gentle draping and exquisite workmanship. Midi skirts with long, slouchy jumpers, pleats and flowing layers, together with lightweight parkas and sumptuous jackets and coats make for a collection to fit all that autumn and winter can bring.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Inspired by the female divers of the Haenyeo tribe – a matriarchal society where the women get the food and the men look after the children – Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi gave the romantic Preen woman a confident, opulent air for autumn/winter 2018. The label’s signature floaty dresses, as seen on Kate Middleton, were layered over edgy hoodies while ruffled skirts sneaked out from under neoprene coats. Add a pair of fluffy shoes and you’re set to take on the world.
Mary Katrantzou
Bauhaus met Victoriana at the Greek-born designer’s runway. Rich velvets with graphic panels and jewelled brocades reflected Katrantzou’s background in textiles, a reimagining of the flock wallpaper from your great-grandmother’s living room into a colourful, imaginative collection. Letting the graphics do the talking, silhouettes were streamlined and structured, with sharp tailoring, gently drapes and nipped in waists inspired by Victorian lampshades.
Halpern
With a derelict house in Soho as his runway, Michael Halpern oversaw the rebirth of disco to give a dazzling display of glitter and colour. Embracing “inappropriate glamour”, the New York-born designer played with conventional attitudes towards formal and casual, evening and daywear, presenting sequinned separates to turn the office into Studio 54. Clashing colours, asymmetric necklines and voluminous ruffles broke all the rules and will appeal to every diva out there.
Erdem
Said to be currently designing Meghan Markle’s wedding dress, Erdem Moralioglu took over the National Portrait Gallery in Trafalgar Square to send out a picture-perfect collection reinforcing his status as a celebrity favourite. Floral prints dominated in rich shades of gold, green, raspberry and blue, matching the luxurious brocades and velvets. Statement capes, coats and suits enveloped high-waisted trousers and feminine, free-flowing dresses. With plenty of polka dots, peeking through key-hole cut-outs or adding drama to long lace gloves, it’s a collection sure to be seen on the red carpet.
Roksanda
Serbian-born Roksanda Ilincic studied as an architect before becoming one of London’s foremost luxury designers. Wanting to “protect and shelter” the Roksanda woman, she sent out a runway rich in powerful shapes with her signature long-line elegance. Structural scarves, sharp suits – a must-have for every wardrobe this autumn/winter – and strong, dramatic coats acted like armour over relaxed, soft separates, with a palette of camel, yellow and baby pink and blue. Eveningwear saw fluid satin dresses, playful lines and exaggerated pleating and knotting celebrating the female form – with a cashmere blanket to protect from the elements.
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Emilia Wickstead
Drawing inspiration from US actress Ali McGraw in Love Story, Emilia Wickstead gave her signature romantic aesthetic an American preppy touch. Floaty dresses walked the runway in classic winter tweed, oversized white bib collars adding a puritan feel, before moving to a luscious autumnal colour palette of burgundy, blue and mustards. Wickstead’s unfussy, feminine silhouette worked as well in jeans and knitwear as the standout evening dress, decorated with Swarovski crystal pearls, resulting in the perfect day-to-night collection.
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