The call of the tribe: travel in far-flung tribal lands
In pristine lands far from the beaten track, age-old ways of life survive, says Stuart Watkins.
Last summer my children, tiring of the usual diet of Mediterranean villas and Tuscan pools, demanded to go somewhere more exciting,” says William Dalrymple in the FT. They settled on a trip to the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan, near the Afghan border. That fitted the bill.
From Islamabad airport, the family made their way up into the “green and bucolic” hillsides of the Swat Valley, passing an endless gauntlet of police and army check-posts guarding against Taliban incursions. (The British Foreign Office and US Department of State advise against travelling to the region. Check carefully before travelling yourself.)
On the plus side, this meant Dalrymple and his family had “some of the most stunning mountain landscapes and some of the world’s most intriguing archaeological remains” all to themselves on their way to visit the Kalash tribes. The tribes were the inspiration for Kipling’s The Man Who Would Be King, and were once common in the region, but are now reduced to a few strongholds. From there they preserve a religion and cosmology that “may already have been old” when the Rig Veda was being written.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The Wild Frontiers travel agency arranges jeeps, a cook and a “beautifully carved wooden village house” as a base on the roadless trip from Chitral fort into the Kalash valley. From their base, the party one night headed up the mountain in the moonlight, through a forest of holly, oaks and walnuts, towards the sound of the beat of drums and the cries of dancers.
The party stumbled into the middle of a harvest festival, with “drummers thumping away energetically”, and more than 200 dancers celebrating in embroidered black dresses edged in cowrie shells and hung with bead necklaces. Gaggles of boys would look on and occasionally launch themselves into the dance.
A 16-day private tour from Islmabad to Chitral costs from £2,685 per person (WildFrontiersTravel.com)
A warm welcome in rural India
Chhattisgarh state in east-central India is “a land of elusive leopards, tigers and animist beliefs” far from the chaos of India’s cities, says Kate Eshelby in The Guardian. On arrival, Eshelby was greeted with flower garlands and ushered into a simple and intimate retreat, a good base for visiting the Gond and Baiga tribes who live nearby.
The countryside is dotted with villages of the Deer Horn Muria (part of the Gond tribe), “where life has changed little for centuries”. In one village, Eshelby sees a traditional dance by boys on stilts, dressed in fuchsia and orange, with hand-painted wooden deer headdresses. On most days there’s a market in one of the villages, a “colourful and vibrant affair” where you can buy bangles and exotic vegetables. “Deep-fried jalebi and other sweets are sold alongside silkworm cocoons, turmeric roots, pyramids of jaggery and mountain herbs.”
Eight nights for a family of four costs £2,750 (HolidaysInRuralIndia.com)
A cruise to Papua New Guinea
Explorer Benedict Allen does Papua New Guinea the hard way, says Michael Kerr in The Daily Telegraph. He just hacks his way into the country of rainforest-covered mountain ranges, limestone canyons and endless swamps embracing giant rivers. But the soft way to visit is on a cruise. Near the coast, the tribes are now accustomed to greeting the vessels of companies such as Coral Expeditions, an Australian company which has been organising cruises round the islands for a decade.
There is a pattern to your days at sea. You raise your cabin blinds in the morning to see densely forested volcanic islands. Then you go ashore to be met by people in traditional dress and offering words of welcome, and watch a performance of songs and dance. Then you are taken on a tour of the villages. On one trip into the mangrove swamps on a flotilla of canoes, the party was ambushed by three spear-wielding warriors demanding to know whether they were dealing with friend or foe. On being assured of the party’s good intentions, the leader posed for photographs, his “menace slightly diminished when he revealed that his name was Brian”.
Book through Discover-The-World.co.uk. From £7,240 for 12 nights, excluding flights.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The history of Donald Trump's election conspiracy theories
The Explainer How the 2024 Republican nominee has consistently stoked baseless fears of a stolen election
By David Faris Published
-
Two ancient cities have been discovered along the Silk Road
Under the radar The discovery changed what was known about the old trade route
By Devika Rao, The Week US Published
-
'People shouldn't have to share the road with impaired drivers'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
The Count of Monte Cristo review: 'indecently spectacular' adaptation
The Week Recommends Dumas's classic 19th-century novel is once again given new life in this 'fast-moving' film
By The Week UK Published
-
Death of England: Closing Time review – 'bold, brash reflection on racism'
The Week Recommends The final part of this trilogy deftly explores rising political tensions across the country
By The Week UK Published
-
Sing Sing review: prison drama bursts with 'charm, energy and optimism'
The Week Recommends Colman Domingo plays a real-life prisoner in a performance likely to be an Oscars shoo-in
By The Week UK Published
-
Kaos review: comic retelling of Greek mythology starring Jeff Goldblum
The Week Recommends The new series captures audiences as it 'never takes itself too seriously'
By The Week UK Published
-
Blink Twice review: a 'stylish and savage' black comedy thriller
The Week Recommends Channing Tatum and Naomi Ackie stun in this film on the hedonistic rich directed by Zoë Kravitz
By The Week UK Published
-
Shifters review: 'beautiful' new romantic comedy offers 'bittersweet tenderness'
The Week Recommends The 'inventive, emotionally astute writing' leaves audiences gripped throughout
By The Week UK Published
-
How to do F1: British Grand Prix 2025
The Week Recommends One of the biggest events of the motorsports calendar is back and better than ever
By Rebekah Evans, The Week UK Published
-
Twisters review: 'warm-blooded' film explores dangerous weather
The Week Recommends The film, focusing on 'tornado wranglers', stars Daisy Edgar-Jones and Glen Powell
By The Week UK Published