Kutir restaurant review: high-end Indian tipped for Michelin stars
Bursting onto London’s Indian restaurant scene with exceptional pedigree and high hopes, the buzz that surrounded Kutir’s opening already had it that the restaurant was on its way to Michelin stars, even before the Michelin inspectors had time to look up its location on Google maps.
And it is easy to see why. Kutir is the brainchild of serial Indian restaurant hitmaker Rohit Gai and another veteran of the high-end Indian scene, Abhi Sangwan.
Adding to the expectation is Kutir’s location. The attractive Chelsea townhouse was previously home to Vineet Basai’s Rasoi, which itself won a Michelin star before making way for the short-lived VBL, which was similarly rewarded before closing unexpectedly a year later.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Now the venue is home to Kutir, and the restaurant is off to a flying start. “A new gem,” declared GQ; “grown-up glamour,” The Daily Telegraph called it. Four and five star reviews all round.
And they're not wrong. Unmissable dishes on the menu include the quail naan and scrambled egg, whose bread is covered in rich fluffy quail eggs and given a generous scattering of truffle. The paneer makkai, with sweet corn, cottage cheese, yoghurt and garnished prettily with a smattering of purple leaves is also delicious.
Another egg dish almost matches the quail naan - the nargisi kofta, which sees boiled eggs served in keema with bone marrow and churchur paratha.
The prawn masala is another show-stopper. The lamb chops too – a classic that can easily separate good Indian from the merely adequate – are served pink with just the right amount of heat.
As well as Kutir’s à la carte options, diners can also opt for “Expeditions”; seven to nine-course tasting menus named Signature or Vegetarian Signature. Highlights here include the subtly executed chicken tikka masala, as light an interpretation of this UK favourite as you could hope, and the aloo tikki, a crisp potato cake that comes with tamarind and mint chutney.
After all those riches, end with the beautifully plated Valrhona chocolate and banana for dessert – as geometrically satisfying as a Modrian.
Or bring the meal to close with a bhappa doi, a steamed yoghurt pudding that is here served with honeycomb and rose petals. A subtle end to a strong menu that makes a forceful claim for Michelin recognition.
Kutir, 10 Lincoln St, London SW3 2TS. For reservations, visit kutir.co.uk or call 020 7581 1144.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.
-
Last hopes for justice for UK's nuclear test veterans
Under the Radar Thousands of ex-service personnel say their lives have been blighted by aggressive cancers and genetic mutations
By Sorcha Bradley, The Week UK Published
-
'It may not be surprising that creative work is used without permission'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
5 simple items to help make your airplane seat more comfortable
The Week Recommends Gel cushions and inflatable travel pillows make a world of difference
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
How London fell back in love with the brasserie
The Blend From Brasserie Zédel to Café François, we sample the best bistros in town
By Charlie Teasdale Published
-
The Count of Monte Cristo review: 'indecently spectacular' adaptation
The Week Recommends Dumas's classic 19th-century novel is once again given new life in this 'fast-moving' film
By The Week UK Published
-
Death of England: Closing Time review – 'bold, brash reflection on racism'
The Week Recommends The final part of this trilogy deftly explores rising political tensions across the country
By The Week UK Published
-
Sing Sing review: prison drama bursts with 'charm, energy and optimism'
The Week Recommends Colman Domingo plays a real-life prisoner in a performance likely to be an Oscars shoo-in
By The Week UK Published
-
Kaos review: comic retelling of Greek mythology starring Jeff Goldblum
The Week Recommends The new series captures audiences as it 'never takes itself too seriously'
By The Week UK Published
-
Blink Twice review: a 'stylish and savage' black comedy thriller
The Week Recommends Channing Tatum and Naomi Ackie stun in this film on the hedonistic rich directed by Zoë Kravitz
By The Week UK Published
-
Shifters review: 'beautiful' new romantic comedy offers 'bittersweet tenderness'
The Week Recommends The 'inventive, emotionally astute writing' leaves audiences gripped throughout
By The Week UK Published
-
How to do F1: British Grand Prix 2025
The Week Recommends One of the biggest events of the motorsports calendar is back and better than ever
By Rebekah Evans, The Week UK Published