Belgian ales: Endless variety

“A good selection of Belgian-style ales is like the very best kind of buffet,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Because each brewer uses “highly distinctive yeasts,” a curious sipper can discover all sorts of aromas, colors, and unusual flavors. Here are three favorites from a recent tasting.

Jolly Pumpkin Oro de Calabaza Dexter, Mich. ($18 for 750 ml)This “fresh, lively, and softly carbonated” unfiltered beer has a cloudy hue and “spicy, floral, fruity” flavors.

Contreras Valeir Divers Gavere, Belgium ($4.65 for 11.2 oz)In addition to a toasty taste “and a refreshing bitterness,” this well-balanced beer has an “aroma that reminded me of fresh corn.”

AleSmith Horny Devil San Diego ($20 for 750 ml)This beer is 11 percent alcohol, but you wouldn’t know it from the “breezy, spicy flavor.” Its hoppy bitterness is balanced by “lots of coriander.”