Maru review: the expert’s guide to good sushi

The restaurant’s omakase menu - in which the chef makes all the decisions for you - blends British ingredients with Japanese tradition

Omakase chef Taiji Maruyama of Maru
Maru chef Taiji Maruyama

Unless you know what you’re looking for, you could walk past Maru a dozen times without suspecting that its understated facade belongs to a restaurant of any description, let alone one serving a 20-course celebration of Japanese culinary tradition.

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Holden Frith is The Week’s digital director. He also makes regular appearances on “The Week Unwrapped”, speaking about subjects as diverse as vaccine development and bionic bomb-sniffing locusts. He joined The Week in 2013, spending five years editing the magazine’s website. Before that, he was deputy digital editor at The Sunday Times. He has also been TheTimes.co.uk’s technology editor and the launch editor of Wired magazine’s UK website. Holden has worked in journalism for nearly two decades, having started his professional career while completing an English literature degree at Cambridge University. He followed that with a master’s degree in journalism from Northwestern University in Chicago. A keen photographer, he also writes travel features whenever he gets the chance.