KOL restaurant review: a tour of Mexican cuisine past, present and future

Extremely high-end and entirely casual, KOL is worthy of its Michelin star

KOL Mexican restaurant in London

One of Mexico’s greatest cultural exports, aside from Frida Kahlo and el Dia de los Muertos, is unquestionably the country’s food. But despite its diversity and complexity, many of us know the cuisine as hard tacos, flaccid high-street burritos, tired Old El Paso kits or more debased still: Tex-Mex.

One chef flying the flag for authentic Mexican food in all its complexity is Santiago Lastra of KOL, the only Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant in the UK.

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Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.