Trip of the week: the languid charm of summers in Puglia
Perched on the very edge of Europe, this southern Italian region has an island-like feel
Owing to its growing popularity with foreign tourists, it’s been described as “the new Tuscany” – but the southern region of Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot, is radically different from its northern counterpart, says Stanley Stewart in Condé Nast Traveller.
Perched on the very edge of Europe and all but surrounded by the sea, it feels like an island – “a place apart” – its white “cubist” houses reminiscent of North Africa, its labyrinthine towns of the backstreets of Istanbul. It is gritty, “raw edged” and “flooded with ocean light”, and its climate is so warm that people from elsewhere in Italy come here to sunbathe in October. They are drawn by its food, too, and by its “simplicity”. Puglia to them is “dolce far niente – the sweet languor of doing nothing”.
Although one of the poorest regions of Italy now, it was once “the centre of the known world”. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Venetians and Turks all came here “in search of fame and fortune”. And the memory of those days lingers in the “echoing” palaces and “barn-like” churches in its towns, and in its ancient fortified farmhouses, or masserie, many of which have been transformed into luxury properties. In Salento, the region’s southernmost stretch – a “stark, bony place” where wild figs, pomegranates and “contorted” olive trees grow in profusion – ancient watchtowers gaze across the Adriatic towards the mountains of Albania.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
On Salento’s west coast, the beautiful city of Gallipoli sits on a promontory “like a ship, halfway to Africa”, and along its east coast lie glorious towns such as Santa Maria di Leuca, where St Peter is said to have landed on his way to Rome. But the “star turn” not only of Salento but of the whole of southern Italy is Lecce, “the Florence of the south”, a city “like a film set”, with great restaurants, contemporary art galleries, and some wonderful and unusual baroque architecture.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The Pentagon faces an uncertain future with Trump
Talking Point The president-elect has nominated conservative commentator Pete Hegseth to lead the Defense Department
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
This is what you should know about State Department travel advisories and warnings
In Depth Stay safe on your international adventures
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
'All Tyson-Paul promised was spectacle and, in the end, that's all we got'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
Drawing the Italian Renaissance: a 'relentlessly impressive' exhibition
The Week Recommends Show at the King's Gallery features an 'enormous cache' of works by the likes of Leonardo, Michelangelo and Raphael
By The Week UK Published
-
Niall Williams shares his favourite books
The Week Recommends The Irish novelist chooses works by Charles Dickens, Seamus Heaney and Wendell Berry
By The Week UK Published
-
Raise your glass at these 7 hotel bars where the vibe is as important as the drinking
The Week Recommends Have a pisco sour in Peru and a Bellini in Rome. Or maybe run into Bruno Mars in Vegas.
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Patriot: Alexei Navalny's memoir is as 'compelling as it is painful'
The Week Recommends The anti-corruption campaigner's harrowing book was published posthumously after his death in a remote Arctic prison
By The Week UK Published
-
The Curious Case of Benjamin Button: a 'magical' show with 'an electrifying emotional charge'
The Week Recommends The 'vivacious' Fitzgerald adaptation has a 'shimmering, soaring' score
By The Week UK Published
-
Bird: Andrea Arnold's 'strange, beguiling and quietly moving' drama
The Week Recommends Barry Keoghan stars in 'fearless' film combining social and magical realism
By The Week UK Published
-
Kate Summerscale's 6 favorite true crime books about real murder cases
Feature The best-selling author recommends works by Helen Garner, Gwen Adshead, and more
By The Week US Published
-
6 elegant homes in the Mediterranean style
Feature Featuring an award-winning mansion in Colorado and an Alhambra palace-inspired home in Washington
By The Week Staff Last updated