A long weekend in Milan
With its quirky neighbourhoods and exceptional connection to fashion, the north Italian financial hub is ideal for a city break
Milan is a city that does not struggle for guests. Milano Centrale is the largest, and probably most spectacular, railway station in Europe; paired with the central location of Linate airport this makes Milan an ideal choice for a quick city break. Here's how to make the most of it.
Things to do
Avoiding the crowds at San Bernadino alle Ossa
Like all Italian cities, there's an abundance of beautiful churches. The Duomo steals the headlines but it also attracts the hordes: for a more intimate experience head to San Bernardino alle Ossa. It's a different kind of breathtaking.
If you're in Milan for luxury fashion then Quadrilatero della Moda is the place, but the crowds will only intensify. For a more enjoyable retail experience try Brera: independent brands replace global behemoths, and chic locals mingle in cafés lining cobbled streets. If you time it right, the third Sunday of the month sees the streets filled with antiques stalls – some offer incredible bargains. Corso Como also has alternative shopping options – 10 Corso Como has a Dover Street Market feel to it, and a beautiful café in a fairy-lit courtyard.
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On the opposite side of the city, Navigli has a much more bohemian vibe. Arty types line the canal banks, musicians play, and there's generally more of a crackle in the air. Buzzy bars and cafés fill the streets; small artisanal brands operate from the hidden studios and offices (independent, woman-owned tailor Vestificio Milano is a fine example). In the east, Via Abramo Lincoln attracts lovers of architecture to marvel at brightly coloured houses, while Villa Invernizzi showcases local oddities, including a flock of flamingos in the grounds.
Where to stay
Hotel Principe di Savoia delivers all the opulence you would expect from the Dorchester
Milan is a very walkable city, so it's best to pick a central location and plan each day in a different direction. There are plenty of options within the centro storico – here are the best.
The corner of Via Manzoni and Via della Spiga is difficult to beat as a home base. "Home" is also the perfect word to describe the new Rocco Forte property there, as it comprises a collection of 11 serviced apartments, rather than a traditional hotel. The result is a fabulous blend of independence and amenities. The spaces are exquisitely designed, chic and stylish, and wonderfully cosy. The combination of having a fully appointed kitchen to prepare meals at leisure – and even host guests, if you're so inclined – with having breakfast delivered each morning is a comfortable balance, and the daily housekeeping service (at a time of your choosing) helps maintain the sensation of being on holiday, and of being truly looked after. Coffee on your balcony each morning, watching the city bustle beneath you, will make you feel truly immersed in Milanese life.
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For a full hotel experience it's difficult to match Principe di Savoia, the Dorchester Collection property in Milan. All the opulence one expects from the brand is on show, from the marble-laden décor in each room to the exhaustive service from the staff. This is a hotel very popular with the fashion set, as evidenced by the free car service which whisks guests to and from Via Montenapoleone, and packed to the rafters with luxury touches. The spa and gym on the top floor are alone worth the stay, with a sunlit pool and roof terrace to relax on; the dining room of main restaurant Acanto looks onto the hotel's own terraced garden and provides a dazzling location for a truly special meal. If you're in Milan to treat yourself, full-service pampering at Principe will tick every box.
There's a distinctly younger vibe at Il Duca. The ME brand is known for being vibrant and trendy, and this definitely carries over into its Milan address. The top floor may not have a relaxing spa (like its neighbours at Principe), but is home to a cocktail bar with an electric party energy and excellent drinks selection. All that before you've even noticed the nighttime skyline views. Downstairs, the rooms are cool and modern but with a cosiness and intelligent design which makes them extremely comfortable. The added bonus with this hotel is the restaurant – STK is a steakhouse, perfect for when you need a break from pasta, with great service and exceptional meat. Try the bone marrow – it's sublime.
Eating and drinking
Vibrant and trendy: the steakhouse at ME Milan
The Milanese are just as proud of their cuisine as the rest of Italy, so any busy restaurant is usually a good shout – strips like Corso Garibaldi, next to Moscova Metro station, have plenty. In Brera, La Libera is a local favourite for traditional dishes paired with European beers. Their cotoletta alla Milanese (traditional breaded veal cutlet) is worth the visit alone, as is the baked ice cream.
Da Giacomo is a local legend for upmarket dining, for an evening when you want to push the boat out, while 101 Tarantella serves up some of the best pizzas you’ll find anywhere at extremely reasonable prices. Gattullo is the pick of the (many) local pasticceria brands, perfect for a sugar and caffeine hit to energise you for a long day of exploring. For nights at the bar, head back to Navigli – Gino12 is a fine example of the cool spots around the area for those looking to party, but there are plenty of others around the canal in which to make some mischief.
Nick Hendry explored Milan as a guest of Rocco Forte House (from €1,000 per night) Hotel Principe di Savoia (from €595 in low season/€995 in high season) and ME Milan Il Duca (from €259)
Nick Hendry spent more than 20 years working in luxury hospitality before pivoting to journalism in 2020. He uses the expertise that he developed in his former career to inform his writing for The Week and other publications including the Financial Times’ HTSI, Robb Report magazine and The Times’ Luxx. He covers destinations all over the globe but has a particular knowledge of and passion for Paris, Florence, Hong Kong and Taipei. Given half a chance, he'll weave his love of fashion into his work as well. Find him on Instagram at @nickhendry7.