La Sultana Marrakech review: an oasis of calm in the heart of the Kasbah 

The Kasbah district of Marrakech, like many other parts of the former imperial city, positively hums with energy. Taxis weave and wind through narrow streets, market sellers tirelessly hawk their trinkets, and pot after pot after pot of sweet mint tea is brewed and shared between friends.

The constant thrum of activity is a defining quality of this Moroccan city. It can also, at times, be overwhelming. So it was a joy to wander down an unremarkable alleyway off the main Kasbah high street and discover a veritable oasis.

Why stay here?

La Sultana Marrakech is a stunning boutique hotel located within the royal quarter of the Kasbah, between the historic Saadian Tombs and the Royal Palace. The building itself is steeped in history, built in the shell of a Moroccan palace. The complex architecture and elaborate interior design pay tribute to the styles of various North African dynasties.

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My partner and I sadly spent just a single night there, but that one 24-hour experience was supreme. The hotel consists of 28 rooms and suites and five interconnected riads (a type of Moroccan courtyard). Each riad has its own distinct style – with beautiful central gardens, water features, intricate wall carvings and North African artworks all contributing to a deeply tranquil atmosphere.

Our bedroom sat off the riad at the front section of the hotel. At once both expansive and intimate, the room met all our relaxation needs, but my personal highlight was the bathroom. The whole room glowed with a cerulean blue finish, the tiles underfoot and the curved arches conjuring images of the traditional Moroccan hammam, and I could frankly have spent a lifetime or two luxuriating in the depths of the bathtub.

Facilities

I bravely resisted excessive tub-time, thanks chiefly to the hotel’s many other alluring amenities. A spa area, gym, heated pool and a 2,000-square-foot roof terrace are all there for guests to enjoy.

Permit me to linger briefly on said roof terrace. It offers a genuinely breath-taking, panoramic view. From the souks down below to the minarets closeby, the roof looks out across the entire canopy of the city and beyond, to the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains. It’s an absolutely divine spot to grab a drink, unwind and people watch to your heart’s content.

Eating and drinking

Guests and visitors can dine on the rooftop, but we opted for an evening meal at the hotel’s downstairs restaurant – La Table de La Sultana – which specialises in Moroccan cuisine with a decadent French influence.

Here, tables are laid out around the hotel’s swimming pool on the ground floor (which is thankfully unavailable for swimming services during dinnertime), with the reflections of candlelight in the still water contributing to the zen atmosphere.

To start, I had a traditional Moroccan dish: pigeon pastilla with almonds. Cityfolk like myself must disregard our preconception of the humble pigeon – they’re far classier than we give them credit for, and this dish was a delight. Pastillas are a type of sweet and savoury pie, and this one was of the highest quality – crunchy, warming, tender meat, subtle spices and entirely delicious from first bite to last.

For my main, I chose another traditional dish: lamb with couscous and seven vegetables. A hearty portion promptly arrived and it was a similarly delectable experience as the opening course. My slow-cooked meat was accompanied by an assortment of local vegetables, offering a full range of tastes and textures to contrast with the lamb, from the soft sweetness of the carrots, to the tantalising acidity of the onions.

To finish, my partner and I sampled a luxurious crème brulee with a hint of saffron, which pushed it firmly into the category of sumptuous.

Things to do

From the hotel it’s easy to access Marrakech’s many tourist hotspots, from the charming chaos of the Jemaa el-Fnaa market place and its snake charmers, to the (extremely busy) Bahia Palace. For the fully-mobile traveller, pretty much everywhere is within walking distance, but you can just as easily ask the amenable hotel staff to order you a cab. However, as native London city dwellers, my partner and I were rather keen to escape the big city and surround ourselves with a decent dollop of nature.

Just an hour-and-a-half drive out of Marrakech you find yourself in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, so we opted to join a group tour heading to the Ourika Valley. The highlight of the trip was the scenic walk up to the waterfall itself, located in the heart of the valley.

The walk took us along the banks of the river, where we were flanked the entire time by gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains. The stroll was short (and somewhat treacherous), but when we arrived at the waterfall in one piece, it was a truly beautiful sight, with crystal-clear water cascading down a rocky cliff into the deep pool below.

As part of the day trip we were also taken to an argan oil cooperative, where you can see how this oil – which has become a major Moroccan export in recent years – is produced from the nuts of the argan tree. Despite being a bit of a tourist trap, with guides selling argan products to take home as souvenirs, it was fascinating to learn about the traditional methods the Berber women use to treat and extract the oil.

We also visited the home of a traditional Berber family – an indigenous people from North Africa – which was a great opportunity to experience the local culture first-hand. We were welcomed into their home, learned about their daily lives living off the land, and were treated to some delicious homemade food with freshly made bread on hand to help mop up a portion of local honey, almond butter and, of course, argan oil.

The trip to the Ourika Valley was a fantastic way to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and immerse ourselves in the tranquil pace of Morocco’s countryside.

Kate Samuelson was a guest of La Sultana Marrakech, where rates start from £350 per night for a Riad Room; lasultanahotels.com