A long weekend in Florence

Florence is famous for the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo and Michelangelo's David. They are all beautiful and all worth a stop. They are not, however, all the city has to offer. Hundreds of narrow streets contain thousands of treasures, be they culinary, artistic or simply human, and all offer a reason to visit Florence as a living city, not just as a grand-scale museum.

Things to do

First-time visitors should see the highlights: the marquee stops on the tourist trail are all concentrated in the city centre, no more than 10 minutes' walk from each other, so head for the Duomo and follow your Google map from there. Once those boxes are ticked, remember to cross the river: taking a cab up to San Miniato al Monte (an 11th-century monastery) before walking down the hill into town is a great way to explore an often overlooked part. Pause for the view at Piazzale Michelangelo, stroll gently through the famous Boboli Gardens, and arrive in Santo Spirito, a buzzy area often missed by visitors.

Back across the river, you'll find an eclectic mix of well-stocked vintage shopping, local artisans and famous luxury names. Vintage is big in this city and prices can vary; Melrose Vintage is great for Americana/workwear, while Tartan Vintage is where to find tailoring and famous brands. Local hand-makers also thrive: Paolo Penko, hidden behind the Duomo, is a silversmith making treasures based on local insignia; Il Bisonte, just beside the Arno River, crafts leather luggage from material sourced within 20 miles of the city.

The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

Latest Videos From

Where to stay

The stylish townhouse on Piazza Santa Maria Novella now home to The Place Firenze was once a private residence. It retains a welcoming atmosphere, which makes arriving here feel like coming home. Public areas, with their chic and modern décor, feel like living rooms, not lobbies, and there isn't really a reception area: "checking in is for airports", explains Claudio Meli, the charismatic GM. Only 20 keys make this an intimate place to stay, and allow for an exceptionally high service level from the team, but the real jewel in their crown is Claudio's connection to his "beloved Florence". With access to local artisans only available to The Place guests, through their philanthropic arm, The Place of Wonders, and a knowledge of local restaurateurs far beyond the standard concierge service, it's no surprise the hotel has been chosen by Leading Hotels of the World (LHW) as one of its recommendations for the city.

The concentration of restored palazzos in Florence is high even by Italian standards, but Palazzo Portinari Salviati stands out. The building has been home to both a Medici and a bank, and influences of both are seen in your surroundings. The restaurant – bearing fixtures from both prestigious former residents – holds a Michelin star while the hotel – itself a member of LHW – holds two Michelin keys. The splendour of the piano nobile, the first floor once intended for wealthy residents and now the location of the most opulent of the 13 suites, is astonishing. Taking one of these rooms, with their soaring ceilings, enormous windows and ancient frescoes, really does feel like living in a museum, but there's also a surprisingly down-to-earth atmosphere underneath all the grandeur. After an extraordinary dinner at Vito Mollica's Atto, surrounded by the stained glass installed by the bank in the 1870s, retiring to such palatial digs seems perfectly appropriate.

Somewhere between the ancient and modern lies Helvetia & Bristol. The original wing was created to serve wealthy travellers on the Grand Tours of the 19th century, and still carries the aesthetic of the time (albeit updated), while the second wing was added more recently and has a very different, more contemporary style. This allows guests to choose which suits them and travel between the eras as they see fit, be that to dine in the Cibrèo restaurant – a new iteration of a local legend – or to venture even farther into the past by visiting the Roman spa in the basement, the theme for which was chosen when genuine Roman ruins were discovered (and duly incorporated) during the renovation. This hotel has welcomed guests to Florence for so long it has become part of the fabric of the city's hospitality; staying here is a thoroughly Florentine tradition.

Eating and drinking

The speciality of Florence is the bistecca alla fiorentina (a traditional Tuscan steak dish) and there are myriad places to try it. Cecchini in Cittá, the new city-centre venue from celebrity butcher Dario Cecchini, is an excellent choice. Other must-try local dishes include ribollita – a hearty broth, traditionally intended to use up stale bread and packed with vegetables – best found at L’Osteria di Giovanni, and lampredotto, found in abundance at the street food stalls in and around Mercato Centrale.

More up-market dining is easily found around the luxury shopping district – try Cantinetta Antinori for delicious modern Italian cuisine in a 15th-century palazzo – while quick eats are available at the legions of panini shops. One viral address will be identifiable by its queue – those are tourists, it's overrated, and you shouldn't waste your time. Try Antica Porcheterria Granieri instead. Similarly, most tourists will end up in the legendary Caffè Gilli for cocktails at some point. Those truly in the know will head just across the square to the terrace at Hotel Savoy. For pasta, Simbiosi offers something slightly different to classic fare. For serious authenticity, cross the river to Trattoria Sabatino. It's well worth the walk.

Nick was a guest at The Place Firenze, Palazzo Portinari Salviati and Helvetia & Bristol

Sign up for the Travel newsletter for destination inspiration and the latest news and trends