A Cambodian adventure to Angkor Wat and Siem Reap
Explore the historical and colourful sights of Cambodia’s second-largest city
As the gateway to Angkor Wat, Siem Reap might seem like a place you pass through on your way to something more interesting nearby.
But this unsuspecting city is the second largest in Cambodia and people have lived here for around 1,200 years. For those travellers willing to spend an extra few days enjoying the surrounding area, there is so much to offer.
A ‘magical experience’ at Angkor Wat
Ok, you can’t go to Siem Reap without visiting the 900-year-old temple complex that made the town famous, so let’s get that one out of the way first. There are very few things that can make me wake up at 3am, a flight being the main one, but by far the best reason I have ever had to set my alarm at that ungodly hour is to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat.
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Taking a guide isn’t necessary, but they do know exactly where to find the best views. We arrived in complete darkness and were told to sit on a wall. The lake below us was only visible when a fish broke the surface, creating ripples that reflected in the moonlight, but soon the sky began its journey from deep purple to the warmest pink and the temple’s ancient towers came into view. Watching a fiery sun rise above this site is a magical experience I will remember for the rest of my life.
Our guide Dalign spent the next four hours showing us around three of the most famous temples, highlighting some of the most interesting bits of history and architecture. Between nuggets of information about Angkor’s history were stories of his own experience growing up locally in the shadow of the Cambodian civil war and the Khmer Rouge. You can book Angkor Wat tours with Journey Cambodia through GetYourGuide.
Things to see and do in Siem Reap
Some people travel here just to see Angkor Wat and don’t enjoy the town. That would be a mistake. There’s so much to see and do in Siem Reap. To get around, take a rickshaw tour of the town for approximately $20 for half a day. This will be the best way to travel when it gets hot – and it gets really, really hot.
If you are interested in all things military, or in the history of the Cambodian civil war, then head to the War Museum. On display you’ll find tanks, weapons, grenades, and many other items left behind after the fighting stopped. Unlike other more polished museums, these items are available to touch, hold and really get to grips with, giving a very personal insight into the atrocities that occurred here.
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The Angkor National Museum will give you an even deeper understanding of the Angkor Wat temple complex, and it is dedicated to preserving the archaeology of the area, as well as sharing the history of the Khmer civilisation that built and lived in it. One of the newest attractions is the Angkor Eye, a 278ft-tall ferris wheel that has panoramic views over the town towards the temples of Angkor.
You also really must spend one evening of your visit at Phare Circus, an extraordinary celebration of Cambodian culture and dance. It was founded in 1994 by nine young men returning from a refugee camp who wanted to help poor young people. The school now has 1,200 daily students, some of whom end up performing at the circus. The energy and talent on stage is incredible, and the audience of all ages were completely engrossed in a story that told of the importance of the rice fields through song and dance. The site has food and performances before the show as well as a shop selling locally made goods.
Where to shop
It is very easy to shop in Cambodia, and there are just so many interesting markets and outlets to explore. The Made in Cambodia market is small but stuffed full of gems that you will want to reserve space for in your suitcase.
Both the Angkor Night Market and the Old Market are open late and situated right in the centre of the city, and you can find pretty much everything in either. Siem Reap is also home to dozens of interesting boutique stores, from the Australian-owned Wild Poppy, to Manava, which sells chic homewares made by Cambodian women.
Artisans Angkor is a museum, craft studio and shop that gives job opportunities to local people. Helping to revive traditional craftsmanship, we saw how they made glorious silk fabrics, as well as intricate wooden carvings and stonework.
Where to stay
Designed by American architect Bill Bensley, Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas are located in the leafy French Quarter of Siem Reap near the Royal Gardens, just a 10-minute walk from the city centre.
The resort, which is split into two hotels, prides itself on genuine, personalised service that is high-quality but refreshingly informal. Guests in the pool villas have a private Bensley butler, and the Shinta Mani Spa by Khmer Tonics offers an extensive menu of therapeutic treatments based on traditional and modern healing rituals, using natural, locally sourced products.
The selling point really is the modern and fun interior design, with a monochrome colour scheme and quirky art adorning the walls and halls. Our room was large, with a comfortable king-size bed and sustainable, refillable toiletries. On the ceiling above the bed was a dimly lit picture of Angkor Wat, which was surprisingly nice to look at as I fell asleep.
There are two pools: one is chic and minimalist in a courtyard adorned with greenery and plants, while the other is large and catches the sun all day long. Both have bars serving delicious cocktails to your lounger.
The hotel supports the Shinta Mani Foundation, which helps with education and development of young adults living in the area, and a percentage of every room rate is donated to this.
Where to eat?
Eating in the hotel might feel like a cop out, but not when the restaurant is as special as this. Kroya by Chef Chanrith is a unique dining experience inspired by the area’s rich heritage. We were treated to six courses of elevated Cambodian cuisine. The chef uses local ingredients and knowledge to create a modern menu inspired by the dishes of his youth, and the result is fragrant, exciting, and delicious. A particular highlight was the Tonlé Sap Lake butter-catfish soup and the sautéed Koh Kong scallops with chilli minced pork. We sat on a swing table over a pond full of koi as tuk-tuks and scooters whizzed past, and our waiter Yaya helped make the experience extra enjoyable.
For more traditional local food try Sambo Khmer restaurant, where the Lok Lak, a spicy beef dish, is a particular speciality. Other must-tries are the amok – steamed, curried fish in a banana leaf parcel – and spring rolls.
You can also keep the budget really low by eating at one of the food trucks that park up by the river each evening. Tables and chairs are available for you to eat your street food in comfort, and you will be surrounded by local people enjoying their dinner.
Where to drink?
If partying is your aim then Pub Street has to be your destination. The name was originally thought up by backpackers in the late 2000s, but it is officially called Street 8. Now it is the centre of nightlife in Siem Reap. Crowds throng along a jumping street full of bars, clubs and, peculiarly, fish pedicure places that offer you a beer as you dangle your feet in tanks of water. It is definitely worth seeing.
If you prefer your evening entertainment to be a little on the lighter side then head down to the river, where bars and restaurants line either side. Sip a cocktail as you enjoy the sunset from one of the many rooftops.
How to get there
Currently, there are no airlines that fly direct from the UK to Siem Reap, but you can fly via most of the major cities in the region on carriers such as Vietnam Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and Thai Airways.
Jaymi McCann was a guest of Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas. Rates start from $150 for the Bayon Wing, $165 for Shinta Mani Angkor and $615 for the Bensley Collection Pool Villas. All rates include breakfast and are subject to applicable service charge and government taxes as well as seasonality. Junction of Oum Khun & 14th Street, Siem Reap, Cambodia; shintamani.com
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Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.