Capri travel guide: things to do, food and drink, hotels

The Faraglioni limestone sea stacks and bay in Capri

(Image credit: Sergii Figurnyi/Shutterstock)

published 22 August 2023

Why you should visit Capri

Capri has long been synonymous with glamour and the high life. A jewel of the Mediterranean just off the tip of the Sorrentine peninsula, this rugged island blends dramatic natural beauty with five-star allure that makes it a magnet for the rich who park their superyachts in the marina. A-listers from the Clooneys to Beyoncé have luxuriated in its environs.

Divided into two parts, Capri and Anacapri, it is the former that draws the tourists, who come to browse designer shops, wander down delightful car-free alleyways, take boat trips and hike paths that offer up Insta-worthy views of jagged cliffs. Couple that with high-end hotels, a vast array of restaurants and well-run beaches, and it is easy to see while Capri remains such an alluring destination.

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Capri’s ancient past is just as storied as more recent history. Among its most notorious early residents was the Emperor Tiberius (42BC-AD37), who escaped Roman politics to indulge himself on the island; his debaucheries were legendary. He had a dozen villas built, the ruins of three of which are worth a look – Palazzo a Mare and Villa Damecuta (in Anacapri), but if you’re prepared for the uphill 45-minute walk from the Piazzetta – I suggest just after breakfast – the largest and best preserved is Villa Jovis, completed around 27AD and covering around 7,000 square metres. Although the site is light on information boards, you’ll absorb a sense of history wandering among its stone ruins. Perched on Capri’s second highest peak, it rewards visitors with jaw-dropping views of the Gulf of Naples all the way to the island of Ischia.

There’s an undeniable glamour to Capri that first drew stars like Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn here during Hollywood’s Golden Age. They warmed to its isolation and stunning scenery as well as a chance to party with the other jet-setters revelling in Capri’s surrounds. Its glamour is best encapsulated in the designer boutiques lining Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Camerelle, where shoppers can spend hours browsing the wares of Dior, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana and more. For an authentic caprese retail experience, step into Carthusia, the high-end caprese perfume brand said to have been invented by monks in the 14th century, and Canfora, the artisan sandal-maker beloved of Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Grace Kelly.

Capri’s natural beauty is just as much of a pull as its quaint shopping streets. Travellers can escape the crowds by taking almost any turn off the main thoroughfares and immediately finding themselves in near-empty, charming narrow byways shaded by giant stone pines and with violet bougainvillaea spilling over stone walls. Try Via Longano off the Piazzetta for a stroll by picture postcard houses, grand villas-turned-hotels, archways and churches, which every so often give way to a glimpse of the twinkly Tyrrhenian Sea.

Capri’s wild beauty is probably best showcased in the cliffside walk called the Pizzolungo, which affords breath-taking views of the sea and walkers almost total solitude. The trail starts in the vicinity of the Arco Naturale (an ancient limestone rock formation also worth a look), via a set of hundreds of stairs curling down through the forest. They take visitors on a winding cliff path around the southern end of the island, offering enchanting eyefuls of lush vegetation and sea vistas. You’ll pass the occasional villa perched on a rock and wonder how its residents get there, with only a remote hiking trail to their front door. Look down to see the famous rust-coloured seaside Villa Malaparte with a giant roof terrace made famous in Jean-Luc Godard’s 1963 film “Contempt”.

Capri’s beaches are magnets to those eager to dip in the island’s azure sea: the largest is next to the Marina Grande, its shallow clear waters making it perfect for families. On the south is Marina Piccola, where you can take a dip in full view of the Faraglioni sea stacks. Popular boat trips include one to the Blue Grotto, arguably Capri’s most famous natural wonder, the mouth of which can be reached by land or by boat from Marina Grande. There guests board rowboats and are chauffeured into a sea cave in which the water shimmers an unearthly bright blue, due to sunlight entering the cave via an underwater opening. Beware that despite an €18 entrance fee, guests spend only about five minutes inside.

Designed as a private villa by the modernist architect Le Corbusier in 1923 and taken over as an Allied HQ during the Second World War, Punta Tragara is now a glamourous five-star establishment that oozes style. It hits you as you enter the reception area, a boldly decorated space with a vaulted ceiling and eye-catching décor that includes dazzling geometric rugs, futuristic floral sofas, 60s-style coffee tables and statement lighting. Glass cabinets showcase curious objets d’art.

Because it clings to the cliff, the hotel’s layout is labyrinthine, with narrow staircases leading here and there, heightening the impression that this 44-room hotel is a real one-off. That ethos extends to the accommodation, with each room decorated in individual style. The newest of the six suites is the Pegasus Etro, showcasing the upscale Italian home furnishing brand, which features a grey and white scheme of paisley and nature-themed fabrics, plus mirrors and gold accents to create an uber-stylish oasis of calm.

We checked into a luxurious junior suite that was very nearly overshadowed by the lure of the giant private terrace just outside our doors. A truly magical place to enjoy a sundowner as we gazed out over the sea and at Capri’s famed Marina Piccola, the preferred parking place for superyachts. Our room décor was a pleasing melange of bold fabrics, mirrored tables, luxe fabrics and retro-style furniture. A good-sized marble bathroom boasted a walk-in shower, bath and Ortigia bath products, as well as the thoughtful addition of a treasure box stuffed with anything you might have forgotten – slippers, eye mask, toothbrush, shaving gel and more.

Once you’ve explored the island, return for a relaxing afternoon on the terraces, where two freshwater pools include one that’s heated and has whirlpool jets. The larger pool features amphitheatre-style seating as well as sun loungers and umbrellas overlooking the sea. Ample beach beds with umbrellas ensured we had a perfect poolside spot in which to relax and drink in the view, ordering naughty afternoon drinks from Le Monzù Gin Club & American Bar. Its menu features more than 150 types of gin and every flavour of tonic imaginable, all served up with mouth-watering canapes to keep us going until dinner.

The one-Michelin-starred Le Monzù restaurant at Punta Tragara offers a stand-out dining experience by chef Luigi Lionetti, who is Capri born and bred. Although high winds made al fresco dining on the terrace impossible on the evening we’d booked, it didn’t detract an iota from our dining experience. The food was the star of the show and the restaurant looked beautiful with its crisp tablecloths and low lighting.

We enjoyed a five-course tasting menu, “Emotions”, at €180 per person, but the chef kept slipping surprise amuse-bouches between courses so that it felt more like ten. We weren’t complaining. Diners can also choose from eight- and seven-course menus, all offering Lionetti’s elevated fusion of Neapolitan and Caprese cuisine, plus dishes from an à la carte menu. Dinner at Le Monzù was a truly memorable experience from an establishment that knows how to serve up a five-star culinary experience.

For a more informal evening out, I recommend Ristorante Lo Sfizio, a 10-minute walk from the Piazzetta on Via Tiberio. Full of locals (always a good sign), it’s a casual family restaurant with a few streetside tables as well offering delicious handmade pasta and pizza from a wood-fired oven. The pecorino, ricotta and marjoram filled ravioli capresi couldn’t be beaten, while my husband raved about the gemelli served with a wonderful clam, courgette and swordfish sauce.

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