7 restaurants that beat winter at its own chilly game

Wintertime sometimes demands a salve of the familiar, comfort for the cold. It may require stupefaction to feel alive during days of boundless snow and chill. These restaurants are a mixture of classic and new, with a touch of live fire to keep you warm and entranced.

Canlis, Seattle

Canlis has been in existence for more than 70 years, an icon on a hill. Go big with the tasting menu, or snag a seat at the bar for a comparatively casual experience. The service is legendary; the wine list iconic.

Cielo Rojo, Phoenix

Regional Mexican cuisine is becoming more known across the U.S. At Cielo Rojo, a newish restaurant, some of the menu's focus is on the dishes of the central Mexican state of Guanajuato. One fine example is the largas de salvatierra, thick, oversized tortillas stuffed with your choice of bistec ranchero, slivers of nopal (cactus paddle) or stewed pork cracklings in salsa rojo.

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City House, Nashville

Italy meets the American South at this Nashville institution. The pizzas at City House are legends. In one example, country sausage meets charred collard greens and Calabrian crema. In another, roasted winter squash tango with buttermilk cheddar. The space is an industrial warren of rooms where the vibes are as invigorating as the cooking.

Dunsmoor, Los Angeles

Very merrily, very American: The menu at Dunsmoor on the east side of Los Angeles flicks at various regional cooking styles of the United States. Chicories are "killed" — dressed with warm vinaigrette as they might be in Appalachia. A stew of pork and green chiles is served with flour tortillas as it might be in the Southwest. The wood-fire oven and grill is always roaring, no matter the season.

Elske, Chicago

There is a sleek Danish breeziness to Elske, perfect for winter in Chicago. You can choose a tasting menu of nine courses or select our own adventure from the à la carte menu. Whichever direction you wander, you are ensured carefully executed dishes that star Scandinavian touches such as smoked eel, various cabbage treatments and rye bread.

Oleana, Boston

Long before Middle Eastern food become hip, Oleana started introducing the Boston area to the flavors of the region in 2001. More than twenty years on, the menu still reads as fresh and smart as ever. Flaky borek stuffed with mushrooms and served with yogurt and charred broccolini; fried mussels with turkish almond sauce: These are dishes that vibrate with flavor.

Theodora, New York City

There is a lot of seafood, even more vegetables and endless open-fire at Theodora. Some dishes, like prawns with pineapple pico de gallo, are cooked on a mangal, a grill designed for wood-fire cooking. Others, like a whole branzino with rosemary, are blasted in a wood-fired oven. This is the kind of cooking you want during winter.