Seven hundred islands make up the Bahamas archipelago, about 30 of them inhabited. Almost 70% of the 300,000 Bahamians live on 21-by-seven-mile New Providence, home to the capital Nassau (rhymes with "saw"). The Bahamas celebrated 50 years of independence from Britain in July 2023, but some colonial traces remain: driving on the left (although most cars are left-hand drive US imports), red pillar boxes, police-station lamps, royal coats of arms, and a Queen Victoria statue in Nassau's Parliament Square. Nowadays 80% of visitors have American accents – Miami is less than an hour's flight away.
As you leave Lynden Pindling International Airport in Nassau you'll catch your first glimpse of this enormous coral-coloured edifice, named after the lost city in Greek mythology. Wondering what the link is? A Bahamian island has been identified as Atlantis's potential location.
Why come here?
The Atlantis Paradise Island resort is themed on the legend, from the foyer's ceiling murals to Plato's bar, named after the philosopher who first described Atlantis. Everywhere eye-catching decorative elements compete for attention, from stunning glass sculptures in the casino by American artist Dale Chihuly to indoor waterfalls and fountains with spinning balls near the foyer.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, the resort is set in lush, landscaped grounds and a water-based wonderland – including one of the world's largest waterparks. Accommodation ranges from upmarket self-catering villas to an adults-only block; suites and studios for groups and families, and more affordable, family-friendly rooms. And the marina can accommodate vessels of up to 250ft.
The Royal at Atlantis has 1,201 guest rooms and suites
(Image credit: Atlantis Paradise Island Bahamas)
The accommodation
From the west tower of the centrally located The Royal, we looked out over the resort, with a bird's-eye view of rays swimming below, to the Atlantic beyond. The light, large rooms feature soft, natural sand and sea tones, with driftwood touches. On arrival we were ready to flop onto our comfortably firm yet yielding twin queen-size beds after our nine-hour flight. Two pairs of curtains, sheer and blackout, also contributed to a deep sleep, as did easy-to-control air con.
Storage is plentiful, with a large chest of drawers and double wardrobe, and there's a velvety padded bench at the end of the bed, and a table with two sturdy armchairs. Tech-wise, there's a massive flatscreen TV, USB sockets, and you can borrow a plug adaptor from housekeeping. The bathroom is big, with a separate loo, and a shallow, short bath with shower and, thoughtfully, a washing line for drying wet swimwear.
Book a table on the terrace at Italian restaurant Paranza by Michael White
(Image credit: Atlantis Paradise Island Bahamas)
Eating and drinking
Loosen your belt – there are more than 20 restaurants on site, featuring cuisines from around the world, all within a short walk. Booking ahead is recommended. Try Bahamian super-popular speciality conch ("conk", a marine mollusc in a giant pink shell) at Bimini Road, or an international fish and seafood menu at Fish by award-winning chef José Andrés.
At Nobu, the Japanese restaurant renowned for black cod, I enjoyed oh-so-fresh vegetable maki and crisp tempura. Innovative Italian, with the focus on seafood, is served at Paranza by Michelin-starred chef Michael White; book a table on the terrace amid tropical planting. More casually, in Shake Shack, we fought jet lag listening to the bartenders' banter, watching them mix cocktails (and sampling them), like the "Bahama Mama", made with dark rum, coconut rum, orange juice and pineapple juice.
Take a 'Leap of Faith' from the top of the Mayan Temple at Aquaventure
(Image credit: Atlantis Paradise Island Bahamas)
Things to do
Paradise Island's ocean-side coast slopes into the Atlantic, along five miles of white sandy beach and unfeasibly turquoise sea, backed by palm trees, with plenty of sunbeds featuring built-in shades. But right by the hotel is Aquaventure: a 141-acre waterscape of thrilling slides, rides and 14 pools.
On the relatively gentle "Rapids River", we floated in inflatable rings along its one-mile course, admiring the scenery, occasionally buffeted by rapids, while screaming (me) and laughing (me and my partner). At the extreme end is the "Leap of Faith", which plunges vertically down a slide from the Mayan Temple. Lifejackets are supplied for all ages, and there are three pools for younger children, full of aquatic apparatus and gentle slides.
For the energetic, try snorkelling, stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking and water bikes in the naturalistic Paradise Lagoon. Look out for the creatures in the marine habitats, including The Dig, an aquarium designed to look like an archaeological dig, and the Predator Lagoon, with viewing tunnels looking on tropical fish, sharks, barracudas, rays, sawfish, and giant grouper.
Relax on the beach at Paradise Lagoon
(Image credit: Atlantis Paradise Island Bahamas)
There's a lot packed into Paradise Island's one square mile, but we wanted to see the capital Nassau. Take a taxi (around $15 each way, plus $2 bridge toll), from the Towers main entrance, or boat taxi ($7pp each way), from under the bridge.
Nassau is brightly coloured and busy, particularly around the cruise port at Prince George Wharf and the main Bay Street. Street traders call for your attention, as do stallholders in the Straw Market, where crafts such as basket weaving and wood carving share space with standard souvenirs. There are lots of duty-free shops selling luxury goods, too.
And if it all begins to feel a little hectic, book a massage in the Mandara Spa, stroll along Cove Beach to see the wooden sculptures of dancing women by local artist Antonius Roberts, retire to the double hammocks slung between palm trees, or simply watch those rays gliding underwater…
Adrienne Wyper was a guest of Atlantis Paradise Island Bahamas. Rates for a king terrace view room in The Royal start from £315 (US$395) per night. One Casino Drive, Paradise Island, Bahamas; atlantisbahamas.com. British Airways and Virgin Atlantic fly direct to Nassau from London Heathrow.
Sign up to The Week's Travel newsletter for destination guides and the latest trends
Explore More
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Adrienne Wyper has been a freelance sub-editor and writer for The Week's website and magazine since 2015. As a travel and lifestyle journalist, she has also written and edited for other titles including BBC Countryfile, British Travel Journal, Coast, Country Living, Country Walking, Good Housekeeping, The Independent, The Lady and Woman’s Own.
Two ancient cities have been discovered along the Silk Road
'People shouldn't have to share the road with impaired drivers'
Is academic freedom in peril?
Langdale Chase Hotel: a cosy nook in the Lake District
Grenada's luxurious new resorts
Autumn means time to turn into a country mouse. These 6 low-key destinations are the right kind of escape.
Ramdane Touhami's Hotel Drei Berge
Timeless hotels for old-school elegance
Hoteliers who host
Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, is a town for all seasons
Kris Kristofferson, singer-songwriter, is dead at 88
