Just a mile from the water's edge, just outside the village of Dittisham on the River Dart, is Dittisham Hideaway, set in a quiet valley with a babbling stream, surrounded by woodland. It's the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding area.
The beautiful countryside of South Devon is hard to beat for a tranquil break. Here, you will find 125 miles of Heritage coastline, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and a national park. The South West Coast Path, with its 19th-century origins as a coastguard patrol route to restrict smuggling, is now England's longest waymarked footpath – stretching 630 miles from Minehead on the edge of Exmoor to Poole Harbour. It offers walkers a clearly marked route along some of the finest coastline in the world, and crosses the River Dart in Dartmouth. Walking routes around Dartmouth and Dittisham are gentle and scenic and they can be broken up with stops at the many pubs and cafés along the way.
Why stay here
(Image credit: Dittisham Hideaway)
There are four cedar-clad treehouses, an iconic 1950s American Airstream caravan and idyllic Shepherds Lodges, some of which are dog friendly, each with wood-fired hot tubs and private decks overlooking the stream and down the valley.
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We stayed in a Shepherds Lodge – 26ft of spacious, luxurious interiors built by local artisans in a meadow of wild flowers with valley views. Clever touches include electric wheelbarrows, so you don't have to struggle with bags, barbecues and electric car-charging points. It was so well insulated that, even though it was cold outside, we didn't need the wood-burning stove. But we lit it for the romance and then opened the door to compensate.
On the terrace, we made use of our wood-fired hot tub and watched the stars as we gently poached in absolute silence save for the sound of the stream and the calling of owls. The Wi-Fi and TV were excellent, but it seemed a shame to spoil the tranquility. Eventually, we retired to our comfortable bed with crisp Egyptian cotton sheets and blankets.
What to do
The picture-postcard village of Dittisham, on the banks of the River Dart, is located nearby. It was historically a hub for shipbuilding thanks to its deep water. Today, you can take in the scenery from its waterfront pub or catch the ferry across the river to Greenway House, the former holiday home of Agatha Christie. It is now a National Trust property with stunning gardens and fascinating interiors. The house remains as Agatha Christie left it, with a library full of first editions of her books and mementos from her global travels with her archaeologist second husband, Max Mallowan.
Eating and drinking
(Image credit: The Angel, Dartmouth)
Devon is renowned for its food. We were within a few miles of Dartmouth, a vibrant harbour town brimming with places to eat. For a refined meal The Angel on the harbour-front is ideal. At the helm is Elly Wentworth, a "MasterChef: The Professionals" finalist, who takes pride in showcasing local ingredients in a pared-back, elegant restaurant.
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We started with chicken terrine and langoustine tortellini in lemongrass velouté, beautifully light yet loaded with flavour. I especially enjoyed the terrine, despite my aversion to anything in aspic – once I'd persuaded my husband to give me a bite. It was light on jelly and heavy on flavour, set off by lightly pickled shimeji mushrooms. For mains, we had roast cod – a real highlight of the meal – with smoked mussels, sea vegetables and seaweed butter, and venison with chestnut purée and sinfully rich pomme purée with truffle oil.
There was really no need for dessert but… we had an apricot sorbet with white chocolate shell, hazelnut cremeux and bee pollen, which, although undeniably delicious, was outclassed by the chocolate with banana and passion fruit. With the potential to be cloying, this was perfectly balanced – one of the best desserts I've ever had.
For fish and chips, try Rockfish, set up by local acclaimed restaurateur and cookery writer Mitch Tonks. There are branches throughout Devon as well as a separate takeaway in Dartmouth. Our national dish can sometimes be a soggy, greasy disappointment, but not at Rockfish. We opted for harbour-caught hake in perfectly golden, crunchy batter with proper mushy peas and tartare sauce. With a jug of house white and the bright interior, it helped us forget the rather drizzly weather.
If you have any space left, head for The Embankment for afternoon tea with homemade cakes. This Grade II building was originally the railway ticket office and is now a charming riverside restaurant from where you can watch the sailing boats and ferries.
Fish and chips at Rockfish
(Image credit: Rockfish)
The verdict
Frankly, at the end of each of the two days spent trying to eat our way around Dartmouth, it was a relief to head back to our Lodge. There we sat on the deck, sipping local sparkling wine and watching buzzards flying overhead – and promised ourselves we'd return to this peaceful haven.
Natasha Langan was a guest of Dittisham Hideaway, where a Shepherd's Hut starts from £195 per night in low season, or £240 per night in high season, based on two people sharing. This June, Dittisham Hideaway is offering Devon Artisan Food Weekends that include a tasting menu dinner for two at The Angel, a welcome basket of local produce and a Devon Cream Tea hamper from The Embankment.
After reading politics at Sussex University, Natasha Langan spent a decade in social care before completing a University of Brighton postgraduate course in health promotion, which led to freelance work as a health researcher and sexual health trainer for both the local council and Terrence Higgins Trust. In 2000, she began working as a freelance journalist for the Daily Express, Daily Mail and MoneyWeek, where she then became picture editor. She continues to write the property pages and travel pages for MoneyWeek and for The Week online. She has a particular interest in nature and food, with a love of seasonal and regional produce around the world, especially the cuisine of Vietnam and Thailand.
