When Charles Darwin came across giant tortoises on the Galápagos Islands, he said: "I was always amused when overtaking one of these great monsters, as it was quietly pacing along, to see how suddenly, the instant I passed, it would draw in its head and legs, and uttering a deep hiss fall to the ground with a heavy sound, as if struck dead".
Luckily for me, the giant tortoises on Desroches Island in the Seychelles were much friendlier, especially Big Pete, who happily posed with us as long as we stroked his carapace and long neck, which he extended in an attitude of bliss. Perhaps the friendliness of the Aldabra giant tortoises on Desroches Island is because their species is unique to the Seychelles, now protected and thriving on the islands, unlike in Darwin's day when they were seen as a delicious dinner and hunted almost to extinction.
The Seychelles is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, 1,000 miles off the east coast of Africa, northeast of Madagascar and just a few degrees south of the equator. Most of the 115 islands are uninhabited and 50% of the total land area is protected, to sustain the stunning and varied natural environments. Desroches is the largest of the Amirantes Islands, a group of coral islands and atolls a 35-minute flight southwest of Mahé, the Seychelles' largest island and capital.
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Four Seasons has two distinct hotels in the Seychelles, one on Desroches Island, the only hotel on the island working in partnership with the government and its conservation society. It is owned by the Islands Development Company, set up by the Seychelles government to focus on environmentally sustainable tourism and development.
In case you were worrying this means you're in for a slightly rougher stay, fear not. Four Seasons is famous for its quiet luxury, with 40 residences nestled on the south-western coastline, each with its own pool and ocean view, and a further 31 villas for larger groups.
My spacious villa looked out onto gardens with a private pool and cabana leading down to the beach, where shearwaters were tending to chicks that were about to fledge.
The larger resort on the main island of Mahé is a collection of villas tucked into the hillside, overlooking Petite Anse Bay, one of the most beautiful in the islands, with a white sandy beach and a coral reef starting just feet from the shore. Four Seasons has outdone itself in the building of the resort, placing the villas where they would not disturb the granite rocks and lush foliage that weaves between the treehouse-style villas.
My villa sat high on the hillside, open to the breeze, with fruit bats feasting on the mango trees, white-tailed tropicbirds whirling overhead and the famed Seychelles blue pigeon happily self-grooming in the tree by my pool.
Even leaving the island is a delight as we sat in what must be the world's best departure lounge – a thatched building next to the runway, open to the sea with comfy seats, a bar and passport control that comes to you while you watch your small plane land on the only runway.
What to do
The Aldabra giant tortoises on Desroches Island are a species unique to the Seychelles
(Image credit: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts)
As luxurious as the accommodation in both resorts is, the real draw of the Seychelles is the opportunity to explore the islands and ocean.
On Desroches we visited the tortoise sanctuary, where we were introduced to the project and its residents by the delightful Nasreen, Four Seasons' conservationist, who manages the breeding programme of the giant tortoises as well as rescuing them from illegal breeders and restoring the islands' habitat to make sure Big Pete and his friends have all the native flora that they need to graze on. You can cycle to the sanctuary, be driven there on an electric golf buggy, or simply walk through the lush forest interiors of this former coconut plantation.
Next, there's the Castaway Centre for a variety of watersports and fishing. The experienced staff can teach everyone, from beginners to experienced ocean lovers. We opted for a guided snorkel tour of the coral reefs and their inhabitants. Sadly, like many reefs around the world, it's struggling, having been battered by hurricanes and rising sea temperatures leading to bleaching. But ongoing conservation work means it's holding on and it's home to an array of beautiful fish. We were also lucky enough to swim alongside a hawksbill turtle as it gently grazed on the corals and grasses, untroubled by our presence.
On the main island we spent an afternoon with Pip, the marine biologist employed by Four Seasons to help with coral-reef conservation as well as giving guided snorkelling sessions and educational talks. As I stood in the surf, small rays swam past, and further out the sheer volume of colourful fish was astonishing, even though the reef was showing the same stress as on Desroches. Some standouts were the powder-blue surgeonfish, the emperor angelfish and the Moorish idol. Alongside these big show-offs, we were surrounded by iridescent shoals of tiny fish usually only seen in an aquarium.
The spa on Mahé is at the highest point of the resort, and I had one of their signature treatments, Le Syel Soul Retreat, in a peaceful cabana: 60 minutes of blissful massage using organic oils, reflexology and a singing bowl designed to melt away whatever residual tension I hadn't long ago lost on these amazing islands.
Eating and drinking
There are a variety of dining options offering delicious locally inspired food
(Image credit: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts)
Throughout Desroches there are small beach bars and a variety of locations offering delicious locally inspired food, including The Lighthouse on the tip of the island, a romantic place to spend the evening . Not surprisingly, on the larger resort of Mahé there are many more dining options, with highlights including the Asian Izakaya where we ate perfect spicy tuna maki, bao buns and Peking duck rolls. At the restaurant by the beach, we had local coconut fish curry, where the chefs can moderate the heat to your taste, alongside shrimp tacos and amazing lemongrass mojitos that were perfect for the heat.
The verdict
Spacious villas look out onto gardens with private pools
(Image credit: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts)
A stay at any Four Seasons resort is sure to be luxurious, with delightful staff, amazing food and world-class spas, but what made this trip unforgettable was the beauty of the islands and the pleasure of being introduced to it by experts in their fields brimming with love for their subjects. Snorkelling with Pip who could describe each fish and coral we swam past was a highlight of the trip, only beaten by swimming with the hawksbill turtle and, of course, meeting Big Pete, who will live long in my memory – and probably much longer than me.
Natasha was a guest of Four Seasons. Rates at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles from €1,200, including breakfast but excluding taxes. Four Seasons Resort Desroches Island from €725, fourseasons.com/seychellesresorts
Return flights from London to the Seychelles from £802 with Qatar Airways
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