Four Seasons Seychelles at Desroches Island: an eco-conscious sanctuary

Aerial view of Four Seasons Desroches Island.

Desroches is the largest of the Amirantes Islands, a group of coral islands a 35-minute flight southwest of Mahé

(Image credit: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts)

published 21 August 2024

When Charles Darwin came across giant tortoises on the Galápagos Islands, he said: "I was always amused when overtaking one of these great monsters, as it was quietly pacing along, to see how suddenly, the instant I passed, it would draw in its head and legs, and uttering a deep hiss fall to the ground with a heavy sound, as if struck dead".

Luckily for me, the giant tortoises on Desroches Island in the Seychelles were much friendlier, especially Big Pete, who happily posed with us as long as we stroked his carapace and long neck, which he extended in an attitude of bliss. Perhaps the friendliness of the Aldabra giant tortoises on Desroches Island is because their species is unique to the Seychelles, now protected and thriving on the islands, unlike in Darwin's day when they were seen as a delicious dinner and hunted almost to extinction.

The Seychelles is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, 1,000 miles off the east coast of Africa, northeast of Madagascar and just a few degrees south of the equator. Most of the 115 islands are uninhabited and 50% of the total land area is protected, to sustain the stunning and varied natural environments. Desroches is the largest of the Amirantes Islands, a group of coral islands and atolls a 35-minute flight southwest of Mahé, the Seychelles' largest island and capital.

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The larger resort on the main island of Mahé is a collection of villas tucked into the hillside, overlooking Petite Anse Bay, one of the most beautiful in the islands, with a white sandy beach and a coral reef starting just feet from the shore. Four Seasons has outdone itself in the building of the resort, placing the villas where they would not disturb the granite rocks and lush foliage that weaves between the treehouse-style villas.

On Desroches we visited the tortoise sanctuary, where we were introduced to the project and its residents by the delightful Nasreen, Four Seasons' conservationist, who manages the breeding programme of the giant tortoises as well as rescuing them from illegal breeders and restoring the islands' habitat to make sure Big Pete and his friends have all the native flora that they need to graze on. You can cycle to the sanctuary, be driven there on an electric golf buggy, or simply walk through the lush forest interiors of this former coconut plantation.

Next, there's the Castaway Centre for a variety of watersports and fishing. The experienced staff can teach everyone, from beginners to experienced ocean lovers. We opted for a guided snorkel tour of the coral reefs and their inhabitants. Sadly, like many reefs around the world, it's struggling, having been battered by hurricanes and rising sea temperatures leading to bleaching. But ongoing conservation work means it's holding on and it's home to an array of beautiful fish. We were also lucky enough to swim alongside a hawksbill turtle as it gently grazed on the corals and grasses, untroubled by our presence.

On the main island we spent an afternoon with Pip, the marine biologist employed by Four Seasons to help with coral-reef conservation as well as giving guided snorkelling sessions and educational talks. As I stood in the surf, small rays swam past, and further out the sheer volume of colourful fish was astonishing, even though the reef was showing the same stress as on Desroches. Some standouts were the powder-blue surgeonfish, the emperor angelfish and the Moorish idol. Alongside these big show-offs, we were surrounded by iridescent shoals of tiny fish usually only seen in an aquarium.

Throughout Desroches there are small beach bars and a variety of locations offering delicious locally inspired food, including The Lighthouse on the tip of the island, a romantic place to spend the evening . Not surprisingly, on the larger resort of Mahé there are many more dining options, with highlights including the Asian Izakaya where we ate perfect spicy tuna maki, bao buns and Peking duck rolls. At the restaurant by the beach, we had local coconut fish curry, where the chefs can moderate the heat to your taste, alongside shrimp tacos and amazing lemongrass mojitos that were perfect for the heat.

A stay at any Four Seasons resort is sure to be luxurious, with delightful staff, amazing food and world-class spas, but what made this trip unforgettable was the beauty of the islands and the pleasure of being introduced to it by experts in their fields brimming with love for their subjects. Snorkelling with Pip who could describe each fish and coral we swam past was a highlight of the trip, only beaten by swimming with the hawksbill turtle and, of course, meeting Big Pete, who will live long in my memory – and probably much longer than me.