Puppet shows, pagodas and pho: a guide to Hanoi
Vietnam's capital city blends the ancient with the new
Hanoi is a captivating introduction to Vietnam, offering first-time visitors a chance to easily discover the country's history, culture and cuisine. Whether you have a few days or a few weeks, take the time to explore the museums, cafes and theaters you find along the city's streets.
A history spanning 1,000 years
Hanoi was founded more than 1,000 years ago and is "peppered with vestiges" of its past, National Geographic said. Look at the structures: The "faded shutters and neoclassical balconies" are remnants of French colonial rule from the mid-1800s to 1954, and the "newer buildings tell a more harrowing tale, constructed in the wake of the Vietnam War" after bombing wrecked the city.
There are other reminders of both eras throughout Hanoi. At the Hoa Lo Prison Museum, visitors can see what remains of the former prison once dubbed the "Hanoi Hilton" by American POWs. This "thought-provoking" museum focuses on the Vietnamese fight for independence from France, Lonely Planet said, with an "ominous French guillotine" part of the display. There is also a section on the American pilots held captive here, and the late Sen. John McCain's flight suit is part of the museum's collection.
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Seeing the sights
Water puppet shows are a Vietnamese tradition that have stood the test of time. This art form dates back 1,000 years ago, when puppeteers performed alongside folk singers and dancers at festivals in the Red River Delta. For an "enchanting" show, Condé Nast Traveler India recommends heading to the iconic Thang Long Water Puppet Theater, where master puppeteers in waist-deep water and live musicians "bring age-old legends and scenes from Vietnam's northern villages to life."
The Old Quarter offers organized chaos, with motorcycles zipping through the lanes and pedestrians jockeying for space on the sidewalks and in the stores. There are 36 streets here named after different trades, including Hang Bac (Silver Street), where jewelers still sell their wares. Pockets of calm can be found around the area, like at the Bach Ma Temple.
Originally built in the 11th century after Emperor Ly Thai To had a vision of a white horse that led him to the site, visitors enter through "wonderful old wooden doors," Lonely Planet said, before reaching a "statue of the legendary white horse, as well as beautiful red-lacquered funeral palanquin."
Temples and pagodas dot the landscape, representing "some of the most beautiful architectural and artistic works in the world," Thrillist said. It sometimes feels as though "you can't walk 200 meters without coming across one," and among the "most stunning examples" is Tran Quoc. This is Hanoi's oldest Buddhist temple and sits on an island between West Lake and Truc Bach Lake, two popular recreational spots. The pagoda is filled with precious statues, including a wooden Shakyamuni Buddha covered with gold paint.
Soup and coffee like nowhere else
Hanoi has a culinary scene as "diverse as it is delicious," the Michelin Guide said, with street food that is a "testament to the city's vibrant culture and culinary heritage." Pho, a broth soup with rice noodles and meat, feels like a hug in a bowl, and is comfort food in any type of weather (even the humid summers). Another Vietnamese staple is banh mi, a crusty baguette typically filled with pork or chicken, pate, and pickled carrot and daikon radish. Banh mi is "one of the tastiest foods on Earth," Thrillist said, and visitors should eat the sandwiches "every opportunity" they get.
The beauty of dining in Hanoi is that you "don't need a hefty wallet to indulge in its culinary delights," the Michelin Guide said. There are street stalls, markets, cafes and "budget-friendly eateries" everywhere, like The East. Here, the stars of the show are the crab spring rolls and bun cha Hanoi, made of grilled pork and rice vermicelli, a "standout and quintessential street food in the capital."
For a pick me up, head to Bancong for a coconut coffee. This is a "more recent addition to the pantheon" of Vietnamese coffee, National Geographic said, alongside longtime favorites ca phe sua da (iced milk coffee) and ca phe trung (egg coffee). It tastes "more like a dessert than a drink," as finely ground beans are mixed with iced coconut cream and sweetened condensed milk.
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Catherine Garcia has worked as a senior writer at The Week since 2014. Her writing and reporting have appeared in Entertainment Weekly, The New York Times, Wirecutter, NBC News and "The Book of Jezebel," among others. She's a graduate of the University of Redlands and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism.
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