How to spend a long weekend in Torshavn

Torshavn harbour, colourful houses and boat on the water.

The isolated archipelago is often overlooked in favour of Iceland or Norway

(Image credit: Shutterstock / Dmitry Pistrov)

published 9 July 2024

Eager to escape the crowds this summer? The Faroe Islands could hold the answer. Home to more sheep than people, the self-governing nation within the Kingdom of Denmark is often overlooked as a holiday destination. But a new direct flight from Gatwick running until the end of August has made getting here much easier.

Sitting between Scotland, Norway and Iceland in the North Atlantic Ocean, the isolated archipelago is known for its breathtaking scenery and windswept fjords. However, said Jeanine Barone in The New York Times, the Faroe Islands' tiny capital, Torshavn, is also a "nexus of creativity", filled with "buzzy coffee shops, wine bars and fashion emporia".

Torshavn's "narrow cobblestoned streets" and "black-tarred houses" conjure the backdrop for "the most magical Nordic city break you've never had", said Mike MacEacheran in The Times. But with rain expected on up to 300 days a year, don't forget your waterproof jacket.

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What to do

It's well worth visiting Tinganes – the location of one of the oldest parliaments in the world. With its "bright red walls" and "turf-green roof", "it looks a bit like the House of Commons, if designed by Noddy and Big Ears," said MacEacheran. Make sure you "snoop respectfully", though. Many of the buildings are still in use and politicians live locally in the "surrounding warren" of Reyn.

Be sure to stop at the Nordic House, too. With its grassy roof and "cave-like interiors", it could "almost be a hide-out for elves". The cultural institution hosts regular concerts and the cafe has sweeping views all the way to the island of Nolsoy.

Art lovers will enjoy spending an afternoon at the National Gallery of the Faroe Islands, said Barone in The New York Times. "Snuggled on a grassy expanse within the trail-laced forest", the gallery has a permanent collection of over 200 pieces, and a selection of figurative bronzes by Hans Pauli Olsen are on display outside.

If you have time, consider a boat trip to Vestmanna on northern Streymoy. Spotting seabirds like puffins and Arctic terns "nesting in high cliffs, swooping down and gliding past you is exhilarating", said Rich Booth in The Independent.

Where to dine and drink

Rustic seafood bistro Roks is one of the best restaurants in the entire archipelago, said Laura Hall in Lonely Planet. The little sister of the two-Michelin-starred Koks (which has temporarily relocated to Greenland), serves everything from sea urchin roe to "dishes dusted with fish scales that look like confetti".

If you're looking for something a bit more laid-back, drop into OY Brewing, advised MacEacheran in The Times. The "refreshingly on trend" tap room serves tasty kimchi burgers and Korean chicken drumsticks, alongside an impressive collection of locally brewed beers.

For a place so small, added Booth in The Independent, "it's surprising how heaving the bars in Torshavn are each night". You can't go wrong stopping off for a beer at craft brewery Mikkeller, set within a "little low-beamed fishing house by the harbour".

Vingardurin is also worth checking out. A "treat for oenophiles", said Barone in The New York Times, the "unpretentious" wine bar and art gallery has a cellar stocked with more than 200 bottles. It's an "ideal setting" for "nibbling manchego cheese and mingling with artists at the bi-monthly exhibition openings".

Where to stay

The location of Hotel Hafnia is hard to beat: just "seconds from the harbour", it's a "short amble" from most of the city's attractions, said The Telegraph. Soft sheepskin rugs top comfy sofas in the "warm and alluring" lobby, which serves as a "trendy shelter from the North Atlantic drizzle".

Another safe bet is Havgrim Seaside Hotel 1948 – a "quaint boutique" with "grand-spanking views" of the North Atlantic, said The Times. Situated on the rugged coast of Streymoy within walking distance of Torshavn's centre, the hotel has a garden hot tub: the best place to soak up the ocean views.

Irenie Forshaw is a features writer at The Week, covering arts, culture and travel. She began her career in journalism at Leeds University, where she wrote for the student newspaper, The Gryphon, before working at The Guardian and The New Statesman Group. Irenie then became a senior writer at Elite Traveler, where she oversaw The Experts column.