Langdale Chase Hotel: a cosy nook in the Lake District
This Victorian villa has breathtaking views and expansive gardens
The landscape of the Lake District was fixed in our imagination by the poet William Wordsworth. Its shimmering lakes, ancient forests and craggy hilltops inspired his work throughout his life, and the region's timeless beauty continues to draw visitors today.
Why stay here?
At the gateway to the Lake District is Langdale Chase, a classic Victorian villa on the shores of Lake Windermere that became a hotel in the 1930s. The land was originally bought in 1890 by a Manchester businessman with the intention of building a small retreat, but he died before any work could start.
His widow had a grander vision. She decided it should be her permanent residence and created a Victorian Gothic home with gardens planned and laid out by Thomas Hayton Mawson, an internationally renowned landscape artist responsible for the grounds at the Peace Palace in The Hague.
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It was the first house in Windermere to have electricity installed, along with grand terraces, tennis courts and croquet lawns, and greenhouses where an annual Chrysanthemum Tea Party was held to showcase hundreds of the blooms. Since becoming a hotel, it has hosted notable figures from Agatha Christie to King Charles, with Christie's Poirot film "Dumb Witness" shot in the hotel boathouse.
The accommodation
Following a year-long renovation, this Grade II-listed hotel in six acres of gardens has reopened with 30 bedrooms across the main house, separate lake house and a boat house. We stayed in the charming Pullwood Bay Suite – a large corner suite that was once the former snooker room in the main house, overlooking the lake. It has an impressive stained-glass light well and octagonal seating area in the turret, complete with binoculars to spot the surrounding wildlife.
The room is reached through the delightful grand entrance hall, which has a carved wooden staircase and gallery with stained-glass windows, panelling and imposing carved stone fireplace. As part of the restoration, the hall was re-papered to match the original designs creating a maximalist yet intimate feel with the intricately carved woodwork taking centre stage.
There are cosy rooms and retreats throughout, from the comfy bar to the quiet reading room all with breathtaking views over the lake and the fells beyond. For rainy days, frequent in this damp corner of England, sit by the fire in the bar and warm up with one of their signature whisky cocktails. We decided to brave the elements on the grand terrace with warm blankets – and aforesaid cocktail – to stave off the effects of the wind.
What to see and do
We took a tour of the gardens with Alex, one of the dedicated gardeners. He talked us through the restoration of the grounds that has reinstated the original circuit of sinuous paths emulating the surrounding fells, with places to sit and watch the mists roll over the hilltops.
Of course, you come to the Lake District to experience the great outdoors and there are walks leading straight from the hotel's doors. The Great North Swim was taking place during the weekend of our stay – an annual open-air swimming event on Lake Windermere. We had a ringside seat from the terrace of the thousands of people taking to the chilly waters on a blustery weekend, gamely swimming anything from 250 metres to 10k and a half to two miles.
What we hadn't anticipated is that owing to this being the largest swimming event in the UK, the roads in the area were bumper to bumper. Not wanting to waste our weekend sitting in traffic we did the only sane thing, which was to snuggle down in the hotel to admire the madness. This was no hardship given that Langdale Chase has the feel of an eccentric uncle's country house.
Eating and drinking
There are dining options throughout the hotel, from hot buttered crumpets in the reading room to oysters in the bar, or a delicious lobster roll. The dining room is certainly worth a visit, with its floor-to-ceiling glass walls creating a sense of being surrounded by the landscape.
The food makes the most of the Lake District and coastline produce, serving up cuts of rare-breed cattle and Herdwick lamb, local fish and shellfish and artisan cheeses. The fish was particularly good, especially the wild halibut with its curried mussels.
Afternoon tea is another popular choice. The current offering is inspired by Arthur Ransome's "Swallows and Amazons", with charming themed crockery and delicious dainties from gooseberry choux to the obligatory home-made scones.
The verdict
Looking out over the lake in this incredible part of the country, at this wonderful hotel, we could only agree with Wordsworth – it really is "the loveliest spot that man hath ever found".
Natasha was a guest of Langdale Chase. From £390 a night, langdalechase.co.uk
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