Loire Valley Lodges review: sleep, feast and revive in treetop luxury

The dawn chorus is an idyllic start to any day. But listening to it from the comfort of a bed in a treehouse as you soak up panoramic forest views – now that makes for a truly magical morning. 

And it's pretty much how every day starts for guests at Loire Valley Lodges, where both natural wonder and meticulous hospitality are abundant. Yet you'll find that, with 750 acres of private forest to explore, things only get better as the day goes on.

Land and lodges

This haven of tranquillity feels somewhat undersold by the word "hotel" – hideaway, oasis or sanctuary seem more apt. Guests are immersed in the woodland's scents and scenery from the moment they arrive. Every member of Loire Valley Lodges' impressive team doubles up as a forest guide, ready to show you the ropes – and routes – to help navigate your stay.

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An electric cart whisked myself, my sister and, thankfully, our luggage to our lodge. We became almost childlike along the way, our heads zipping around as we pointed out to each other the animals, flowers and artworks lining the paths. A double bass-playing cockerel of roughly my height stood proudly opposite our lodge – and for a moment, the striking sculpture managed to steal my attention away from the towering nest we would shortly be calling home.

The lodge quickly won me back. Designed by Isabelle Poulain, the hotel's sizeable suites are built on stilts, providing unique vantage points across the goings-on of the forest. Each treehouse has its own identity, from their location and orientation to the interior aesthetics. We stayed in number seven, better known as "Houppelandes" – a long, flowing garment shrouded in historic and cultural symbolism. Artist Elizabeth Riou's inspiration for the suite was brought to life through paintings, raw materials and a general aura of timelessness. That, and the two capes that were waiting to be donned too.

And when better to don them than before stepping out on to a private terrace, ready to enjoy a glass of local pétillant as the evening sun sets through the trees. Actually, I'd suggest slipping a cape on after a nighttime dip in the hot tub too. The lodges have their own private (and roof-covered) Jacuzzis, so guests can unwind while out in the wild, no matter the weather. Six also have individual saunas, for a complete in-room spa experience.

Step back inside and there are touches of luxury in every element of the accommodation. A walk-in waterfall shower, a coffee selection with the option to make your own tea bags from fresh botanicals, plush slippers and, yes, another set of robes – one for indoor and outdoor, of course.

The less expected features were some of our favourites. An ecological speaker carved from mango wood provided all the amplification needed for our stay's soundtrack (never has Taylor Swift been so sustainable). A walkie-talkie was provided, so we could call through to reception with any questions or requests. And a torch was a thoughtful addition too, meaning our phones could be left in the lodge while we took a twilight stroll unencumbered.

It's this attention to detail, the offering's uniqueness, and the accompanying impeccable service that has earned Loire Valley Lodges a Michelin key. The judge of all things excellence – also known as the Michelin Guide – announced its first such accolades for outstanding hotels in France earlier this month, and it's little surprise this boutique bolthole was among those recognised. Like Michelin stars, earning a key is no small feat – and one that speaks to just how remarkable a stay here is.

Revive and reset 

Loire Valley Lodges feels optimised for relaxation and rejuvenation. Each of the 18 lodges is Wi-Fi and TV free. That may sound heavenly to some, and strike fear in others – but as someone whose own screen time needs a serious detox, I can confidently say this is the most pleasurable way to start digitally disconnecting. There's also Wi-Fi back at the lounge bar and terrace, if you do need to log on.

You're unlikely to need online distractions, though – and whether you're looking to restore your energy or use it up, there's plenty to do. On the more active side, grab a map and a set of bikes to take a tour of the grounds. In typical French style, there are beautiful tree-lined tracks that extend beyond the eye's view, as well as smaller forest paths from which to spy a number of pieces of al fresco art. There's plenty of scenic spots with conveniently placed seating too, so you can pause and take in the peaceful surroundings. 

If you're after a more indulgent agenda, an in-lodge massage can't be topped. We enjoyed ours outside on the lodge terrace, as the birds and warm morning sun provided an idyllic sensory backdrop. On cooler days, the team sets up in the suites, so you needn't move a muscle.

An amble through the grounds and gardens is a must. There's the option to take a forest bathing session that's designed to attune the mind and senses to the natural surroundings. Sound baths, yoga classes and guided relaxations also feature on the extensive wellbeing menu, with the team ready to advise and accommodate depending on the kind of reset your mind and body might be craving.

And if the weather's warm, there's really nothing better than a refreshing dip at the pool. With changing rooms, loungers, a nordic bath to soak in, and the restaurant team close at hand, guests have all they need to spend a day making the most of the sun.

Wining and dining

For something more substantial than between-swim-snacks, dinner at Ardent is a real joy. The dining room is charming, overlooking the gardens, creative works adorning the walls, and decked with beautiful solid wood tables and furnishings. It's also one of the only places you're likely to see other guests, who we had almost forgotten existed thanks to the solitude of our treetop hideaway. 

Choose from a four-, six- or eight-course menu, with optional wine pairing, and prepare to be delighted. Head chef Thomas Besnault designs seasonal menus that are at once elegant and surprising, playful and punchy. Tuna tataki dotted with beetroot and sage berries, a deliciously fresh "rock around a pea", and veal with herbs picked fresh from the forest – each course was a delight. One of my favourites was a more understated but no less delicious fried mushroom, served on a mossy bed and accompanied by a local IPA. The birch-inspired dessert, paired with a pear cider, was a treat too. 

Well-fed and well-rested, and just when you think you might never need to eat again, the next morning brings breakfast served à la basket, delivered to the lodges via a pulley system on the terrace. Fresh bread, pastries, apple compote, cheese, gravlax, preserves, juices – it's quite a spread. In-lodge dinners are a feast too. Hampers packed with mason jars and casserole dishes brought soups, terrines, duck parmentier, celery risotto, mousses, candied pear. There's no compromising on quality if you opt for room service here, with the team arriving earlier in the day to lay out the table and set the scene for dinner in the woods.

If you can manage another meal, the "finger food" menu is served on the terrace or the cosy inner lounge during lunch hours. We opted for some of our favourite French staples, with baked Camembert and charcuterie – and of course, yet more bread. 

There's further culinary excitement for guests planning stays this summer, with news that guest chefs Gil Nogueira and Sayaka Sawaguchi will be taking the reins at Loire Valley Lodges' second restaurant, Asperatus. The Michelin green star awardees will bring their sustainable ethos to its outdoor kitchen, in a pop-up residency that promises to impress. 

Getting there

Loire Valley Lodges is less than a 30-minute drive from Tours and its airport, which is served by several flights a week from London Stansted. 

Or extend a stay in Paris with a reviving few days at the Lodges, which is a little over an hour from the capital by train (making it ideal for those who prefer to take the Eurostar too). 

Best to book sooner than later for stays this summer, with the Olympics likely to see more tourists seeking some green space after taking in the hubbub of the Games.

Julia O'Driscoll was a guest of Loire Valley Lodges, where nightly rates begin from €440, including breakfast; loirevalleylodges.com