North Korea (sort of) welcomes tourists again

The "hermit kingdom" of North Korea is coming out of isolation, finally welcoming Western tourists again, after sealing its borders at the start of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Last week, a limited number of tour operators led visitors into the special economic zone of Rason, a remote city near the Chinese and Russian borders – and the only place in the socialist nation where free-market activities are allowed. Tourists from Australia, the UK, Jamaica and Germany were able to enter in time for the celebrations of late leader Kim Jong II's birthday – and the re-establishment of tours opens the door to much-needed tourism revenue.

'Desperate for foreign currency'

North Korea was one of the first countries to shut its borders in reaction to the spread of Covid-19 in January 2020, and it's been the last to re-open them. In the past year, the government has only allowed "some official business delegations and Russian tourists to enter the country", said ABC News, while keeping its frontiers "sealed to the rest of the world".

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But North Korea is "desperate for foreign currency", said Hazel Smith, a professor at London's SOAS University, who has lived in North Korea. They need it "not just for oil, but for basic technology like irrigation or health services," she told NBC News.

Before the pandemic, the country received "hundreds of thousands of Chinese tourists", said the broadcaster, who provided up to $175 million (£138 million) in extra revenue in 2019, according to the South Korea-based news outlet NK News.

"The return of tourists could help reshape North Korea's reputation, shifting it from a 'dangerous country' in the eyes of the international community to a potentially 'safe' travel destination," Dr Yee Ji Sun, a researcher at the Korea Institute for National Unification, told The Independent.

The new tour itineraries include visits to a local brewery, a foreign language school and a taekwondo academy. But Pyongyang, the capital, remains closed to all but Russian tourists. Local markets are also off-limits to tourists, due to "lingering concerns over Covid", said the paper, while strict health measures, including temperature checks, are still in place at various locations.

'They wanted connection'

The US prohibits its citizens from visiting North Korea, after the detention and death of 22-year-old American student Otto Warmbier in 2017. But some are still managing to get inside the secretive nation.

Justin Martell joined last week's small tourist delegation, becoming the first American known to step foot in North Korea since the onset of the pandemic. The Connecticut-born filmmaker was actually in North Korea when the US travel ban came into effect – and, by then, he had already visited the country 11 times. To bypass the ban, he has spent about a year obtaining expensive dual citizenship from Saint Kitts and Nevis, a Caribbean nation. "I didn't want to stop coming," he told CNN. "I didn't want the conversation to end."

Inside North Korea, "pandemic paranoia remains deeply entrenched", said the broadcaster. "There seems to be a rumour that Covid-19 got into the country via a balloon sent from South Korea," said Martell.

But he says that, last week, he didn't encounter any of the once typical anti-US hostility. The children who approached him at a local school "didn't care about politics", he said. "They wanted to know about music, sports – what life was like in the US. They wanted connection."